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Central Valley

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Bradley Mountain 
Cathole Mountain 
East Peak 
Pinnacle Rock 
Ragged Mountain 
Rattlesnake Mountain 
West Peak 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Yellow Trail - Pine Mountain
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The Darkside
Flowtastic wilderness around the edge of the Rockland Preserve. Near Durham, Connecticut
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Central Valley Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.6176, -72.8237 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,290
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Doug demonstrating textbook jamming on Cat Crack


Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
The Chin
West Rock State Park
The Garden

Getting There 

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

326 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',91],['2 Stars',142],['1 Star',79],['Bomb',6]

Classic Climbing Routes in Central Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Valley:
Wiessner Slab   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
First Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall
Ancient Way   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 60'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Wet Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Zambezi Hatchet Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall
Carey Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Wiessner Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Broadway   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Pegasus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 70'   Cathole Mountain : Main Walls
Vector   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Thor's Hammer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Merimere Face
Unnamed 5.9   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport   Firewall : Sport Routes
YMC Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Vanishing Point   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Unconquerable Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Cat Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   East Peak : Amphitheater
The Entertainer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall
Ragged Edge   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Subline   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
Dol Guldur   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   East Peak : Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Valley

Featured Route For Central Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...

Wiessner Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CT : Central Valley : ... : Main Cliff
This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Central Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ragged Mountain
Ragged Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic Traprock ascent
Classic Traprock ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Cat Crack
Me on Cat Crack

Comments on Central Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 22, 2006

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e).
By John Peterson
Feb 27, 2006
After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed.
By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Mar 19, 2006
Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 9, 2006
heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip
By Morgan Patterson
Aug 3, 2012
And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too...
By Dmadison
From: Logan, UT
May 5, 2013
This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet).
By Morgan Patterson
May 7, 2013
HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead.
By J.R. Berry
From: Brooklyn, New York
Oct 15, 2015
Hey Ya'll visiting this area for a very Spooky Halloween weekend climbing trip, is there any camping near by someone would recommend ?!

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