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 ADVANCED
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs
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Central Crack T 
Exasperator T 
Glass factory T 
Groovey Grubworm T 
Kudzus Corner T,S 
Millenium Falcon T 
Running Free T 
Twisted Schister T 

Central Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Peter Lataille, spring 2005
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009

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Description 

The thin, steep crack just left of Running Free. The route can be done as a clean-aid practice climb at A2. Free ascents to date have involved preplaced clean gear.


Location 

the thin steep crack just to the right of Kudzus.


Protection 

An old bent piton, and lots of small cams and nuts. traverse right to anchors at the top.



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By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Apr 17, 2009

05' i thought this was fa'd in like 1980. and 12a where did that come from?

By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 17, 2009

I'm going off the new edition of the Camden Guide book. I'm helping Be Townsend with some Photo Topo's and have a draft of the New Edition, and it gives the FA to Peter. I've heard of earlier ascents, but I think this was the first True (non-pre placed gear) ascent.

By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Apr 18, 2009

Fair enough. I'm not sure about the grades. Something I've been meaning to talk to Ben about. I don't think that climb is any more a 12 than say Tilted Arch at the Rampart. Although Tilted Arch is rated 12b and is def. scary on lead it is no harder than 5.11 b/c with a r/x rating. So, I think there ought to be a consensus on some of this stuff. There are still those out there that believe that there is NOTHING harder than 5.9 on Barretts. I dont know about that myself. Keep in mind that Ben has been and still is going off second hand info for a lot of this stuff. There are quite a few climbs here with inflated grades. Including but not limited to Under the gun, Dream Weaver, Ariel, Tilted Arch. There are others that are bagged as well. Such is Camden. I would like to see what you have come up with as far as topo's, keep up the good work
cheers
c

By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 19, 2009

Corson, If you have an email, I can send you a copy of the Draft of the new edition, it doesn't have topos in it yet, but it has a bunch of new climbs, especially at maidens cliff. I spend alot of time with Jerry C. and I love giving him grief about the grades, all in good fun, we get a good chuckle out of it. Also, I think Ben wanted general climbing photos of the area, so if you have any nice photos of camden, I'd love to get copies, it would help speed up the process. Thanks man,

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 21, 2009

Just a reminder the name is Tilted Arc. As a route developer of much of the Rampart, I would also like to see a draft of the new guide. You can reach me through MP.