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 ADVANCED
Triple Corners Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Worm T 
Central Corner T 
Full Effect, The S 
Jammit Damnit T,S 
Lichen Flakes T 
Logjam T 
Lower Buttress Direct S 
Reasons to be Cheerful T 
Reasons to be Fearful TR 
Sergeant Schultz S 
Skunks in the Gym S 
Stress Management T 
Trundle Love S 
Twit T 
Wild Blue Yonder S 

Central Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 17, 2011

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Description 

Great climbing! In Conway it would get lots of love. Understandably it sees little action at Rumney since it isn't very sporty. It wasn't too dirty when I was on it but there was a little loose rock and dirt up top that my rope was threatening to knock down. I moved my anchor and crisis was averted.

Climb the wide crack right off the ledge manteling to the right and up to a nice stance. Find your way in to the corner awkwardly in a wide hand jam mixed with some perfect hands. It's a bit of a grovel but in a nice Yosemite way not a bad way. It eases up on the second half but you are still climbing 5.8 all the way to the top.

Location 

As the name implies this is the middle corner of the "triple corners". Look for the wide crack start and a nice tight corner above with a hand crack.

Protection 

Regular rack, the guide book says to bring a wide cam but if you look close you can find other options.
Build an anchor or head up to a tree anchor a ways back (bring a sling to add, the anchor is looking a little ratty)


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By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 29, 2014

Today an accident was narrowly avoided on the ledge below the three corners.
My partner climbed Logjam. He went to a tree on the right to set an anchor and I lowered him in the Central Corner groove because it's more in line with the descent. As soon as he got to the ledge, big blocks started coming down (0.5 - 1 cubic foot blocks). When the rocks stopped coming down, my partner put me on belay on the side of the rope that came down the Central Corner. I when up with my grigri on the other end of the rope and climbed Logjam cleaning the gear. Once at the top, I rappelled to the Reasons to be Cheerful anchor and rapped to the ledge.
DON'T CLIMB CENTRAL CORNER UNTIL SOMEONE GOES FROM THE TOP AND MAKE SURE NOTHING ELSE IS ABOUT TO FALL....