Central Corner  5.9+

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  lee hansche on Jul 17, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Great climbing! In Conway it would get lots of love. Understandably it sees little action at Rumney since it isn't very sporty. It wasn't too dirty when I was on it but there was a little loose rock and dirt up top that my rope was threatening to knock down. I moved my anchor and crisis was averted.

Climb the wide crack right off the ledge manteling to the right and up to a nice stance. Find your way in to the corner awkwardly in a wide hand jam mixed with some perfect hands. It's a bit of a grovel but in a nice Yosemite way not a bad way. It eases up on the second half but you are still climbing 5.8 all the way to the top.

Location 

As the name implies this is the middle corner of the "triple corners". Look for the wide crack start and a nice tight corner above with a hand crack.

Protection 

Regular rack, the guide book says to bring a wide cam but if you look close you can find other options.
Build an anchor or head up to a tree anchor a ways back (bring a sling to add, the anchor is looking a little ratty)