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 ADVANCED
Humphrey's Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carpe Diem T,S 
Central Chimney Direct T 
Evening Light T 
Frog Leg T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Wench's Dihedral T 

Central Chimney Direct 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002

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Description 

This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge. There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did. When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone. Climb Sugar Magnolia.


Protection 

BIG STUFF, ie. #4 or #5 Camalot, Big Bros etc.


Descent 

Walkoff climber's left.



Comments on Central Chimney Direct Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002

Walk off to climbers left.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 29, 2002

Difficult to protect unless you use bigger pieces. My #4 Camalot was not big enough. It's also hard to build a belay anchor inside the chimney. It's tempting to sling one of those big chockstones in the chimney, but don't do it! They are very unstable and are likely to come out when force is applied. Sugar Magnolia looks much better.