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Henry Barber on the Great Flake ,Central Buttress,...
One of the Lake Districts most famous climbs,well ahead of its time . It was not until 1956 with the ascent of Post Mortem in Borrowdale that a new era in grades was seen in the Lake District. Located on Scafell Crag.Starts right of a short rocky step in the path below the crag,about 30' left of the chimney of Moss Gill. P1)Ascend a narrow ramp leftwards to a belay.50'5.6.P2)Climb up and traverse to a crack which leads to the left end of a large ledge. Move right to a belay below the obvious flake. 80'5.6.P3)Easily up to the foot of the Great Flake ,continue to a sloping ledge on the left.Traverse left using an horizontal crack onto the face of the flake ,continue to the crest of the flake . Follow flake left to a good ledge. (Jeffcoats ledge).80'5.9.P4) Walk along the ledge and climb an easy ramp to block belays.60' 5.5.P5).Descend slightly and traverse delicately right past a pinnacle into a corner .Up the corner and traverse right to the V-ledge. 50'5.7.P6)Climb thin crack and gangway on the left for about 15' and then traverse right into a corner.Climb the corner to the top ,exit leftwards.
Scawfell Crag .see FRCC guide to Scawfell,Wasdale and Eskdale.
Normal rack ,stoppers and cams
The Flake on the First Ascent 1914
Climbers on the Central Buttress route 5.9 in 1920...
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 10, 2010
FFA Menlove Edwards.