Central Buttress  WI5 M6 Steep Snow R

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 11 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III Consensus:  WI5 M6 [details] FA:  Kent-Hladik-Scott? Greg Sievers & Dougald MacDonald-variation Season:  winter Submitted By:  Greg Sievers on Oct 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Mt. Taylor from Sky Pond.

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Description 

This entry into the database was listed under alpine rock. To facilitate mixed/ice climbers finding this information, this has been resubmitted under the CO mixed/ice section.

Begin 500' left of prow.(enlarge photo for details)

P1-2 - climb/traverse up & right on steep ramp.(M4).
P3-4 - steep snow directly up central buttress, ending on its right side.
P5 - acsend ice & cracks just right of center (M4).
P6 - ED snow on central rib
P7 - 1st crux - M5 in steep shallow bowl.
P8-9 - ED snow leading to upper headwall
P10-11 - M5-6? crux- (condition dependent) very thin, verglas, runout. Start left of center - move up and right, into a narrow slot - end on summit plateau.

Approach info: 

Hike up, like you're headed to the Petit Grepon, then hang a hard left. You can ski up from Sky Pond, if snow conditions are firm, or head west from Sky Pond, up the gully, then climb a narrow chute with a 30' ice bulge then continue onto and across the huge snowfield angling left to gain the same snow bowl below the face. the obvious weekness is a 500' feet left of the direct buttress base area.

Protection 

Standard single alpine rock rack. Maybe 2-4 stubby screws, 2 KB.

Photos of Central Buttress Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The Central Buttress splits the east face of Mt. T...	BETA PHOTO: The business. One of the finer winter alpine face...	BETA PHOTO: Central Buttress winter route is shown. Expect som...
The east face of Taylor Peak on May 7th, 2011.