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Central AZ Finger Cracks
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By ChadMartino
May 1, 2014
Topout on the Island
Hey I'm living around Phoenix now and was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction to some good finger cracks within an afternoon driving distance possibly? Thanks for the help!! -Chad

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By J-Rog
May 1, 2014
Jeff and Sphincter Boy for sure! Both in the Mcdowells.

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By ChadMartino
May 1, 2014
Topout on the Island
Nice thanks man I'm going to check those out tomorrow morning. I'm definitely close to McDowell.

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By Greg DeMatteo
From W. Lebanon, NH
May 2, 2014
Said and Done to Reunion at Granite Mountain.

mountainproject.com/v/reunion/...



Aqualung, Paradise Lost and a few others at Paradise Forks. There's one over on the Sine wall (I think?) with an amazing stretch of fingerlocks.

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By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 2, 2014
Georgeous!
Greg DeMatteo wrote:
Said and Done to Reunion at Granite Mountain.


Closed for falcons until July 15th.

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By Tim Heid
From Scottsdale, AZ
May 2, 2014
Entering the crux section.  Photo: M. Rangel
As mentioned, P3 of Reunion is one of the best I've done in AZ. A few others in Central AZ that are worth doing(some more than others)-

-The Phantom - Pitch 1 , McDowells

-Renaissance Direct - Pitch 1 , McDowells, - a dihedral, but fun fingers laybacking nonetheless

-Last Fool a Hammerin'(5.11) , Superstitions - 2 bolts to a fun finger crack

-Transmission , Isolation Canyon - amazing route with a good finger crack crux on P2. Can link all 3 pitches into 1 220' killer route. This also probably doesn't qualify for the afternoon session from the Phoenix area..

- Chutes and Ladders , Pinnacle Peak - I seem to remember some fun fingerlocks..?


Plenty more out there in Central AZ! However, if splitter fingers is your thing, best to wait until you have a full day and head north to the Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Sedona, etc!

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By ChadMartino
May 2, 2014
Topout on the Island
You guys are awesome! thanks for the great suggestions! Went to McDowell this morning, will be there again early tomorrow morn (hopefully before the gnats start swarming) if anybody is in the area and wants to send! I got plenty o gear for more ppl!

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By Greg DeMatteo
From W. Lebanon, NH
May 3, 2014
Greg Opland wrote:
Closed for falcons until July 15th.


More like "closed because PNF is incapable of taking the time to revise their falcon closure policy."

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By Greg Opland
Administrator
May 4, 2014
Georgeous!
Greg DeMatteo wrote:
More like "closed because PNF is incapable of taking the time to revise their falcon closure policy."


Ha! You got that right, although I would change "incapable" to "completely and utterly unwilling". :-) Close the middle, leave the rest.

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By ChadMartino
May 4, 2014
Topout on the Island
^^Agreed. Went out to McDowell yesterday and lead some fun pitches since we can't climb granite mtn at the moment. Sphincter Boy was good fun despite the terrible name. Didn't make it to Jeff on Morrells wall bc the cool morning temps quickly faded and the gnats started swarming.

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By Colin Kubarych
From Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2014
ChadMartino wrote:
Sphincter Boy was good fun despite the terrible name


Glad to know someone else feels this way. Terrible name.

Since it's getting a bit toasty in the Valley and the season is just about ended, I'll throw out the finger crack @ AZR. Good practice for the fall...

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By CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
May 19, 2014
My Hero
Greg Opland wrote:
Ha! You got that right, although I would change "incapable" to "completely and utterly unwilling". :-) Close the middle, leave the rest.

Yep, absurd. They don't even know or care if there are birds up there. There are so many peregrines now that they are a danger to us.

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