Centipede 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Dave and Duane Cardosa |
| Season: | year round |
| Submitted By: | 8jimi8 on Sep 3, 2006 |
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Description The route starts out on the right side of Dead Cats Wall the next route over from Power Snatch.
The start is a three pad undercling on the left hand, the right is a comfy side pull. Step up right and smear left, laying back on the undercling. Throw right for a big crimp. Rotate the left and place a kneebar on the shelf under the bulge. Match the crimp and then fire left or right for jugs. Smear left and step high bringing your balance up on the curb and let your right hand deadpoint on a small lip. Move your feet below you and stand up reaching left for the thankyoujug. Work the jugs up the face and finish right on 5.6 face or finish left on the upper face of Power Snatch.
Location The obvious blank bulge on the right side of the wall. One route right of Power Snatch.
Protection 3 bolts and sport-clip anchors. Well bolted and easily spotted : attentive belayer required of course...
By Mitch Musci
Dec 22, 2010
| Well bolted...are you kidding? If you blow the second clip you will deck. If you fall going for the good hold above the initial crux sequence you risk a thrashing on your knees and a harsh catch for your belayer. If you fall going for the anchors you will f$@k yourself up. Not to mention it's a sandbag. I don't really care that it's poorly bolted, or that there was some ethic that dictated "only 3 bolts per climb" I'm just warning other climbers that no, this is not well bolted. |
By Clint Walker ATX
Mar 25, 2013
| Great route with a solid boulder start. Love the pull through at the beginning and the thin face climbing. In my opinion if you finish right to the proper anchors you're selling this route short. Finish left on Power Snatch for a more consistent rating.
I think saying the route isn't bolted well is probably correct. There are some potential injuries before you've clipped the second bolt. Either stick clip the second of be very sure of your abilities. The anchors to the right do meander a little off route but the 5.6 rating to them is about right. Left will present a 5.10b-ish finish. |
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