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Chimney Rock
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8th and Main 
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Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
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Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Centerpiece 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Grossman, Thompson; 1977
Page Views: 4,113
Submitted By: eMurdock on Sep 28, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Great section of climbing just below the sweet han...

Description 

This plum was picked in the late seventies by the prolific Steve Grossman. The route starts in the small dihedral to the right of Stoner's Boner. 20 feet up, it pulls a small roof with a hand crack in it. The top section gets steeper and finishes with good pro and a great steep hand crack that is as good as they come on Mt. Lemmon. Great rock, great line and great gear.


Protection 

standared Lemmon rack with doubles in the hand sizes



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Climber at start of climb
Climber at start of climb
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2009
By Wes Turner
From: az
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

keep in mind that the climb was done by steve grossman! and if your just breaking into the grade then get a Bunch of other .10-'s under your belt first.

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Althought it should be noted that there's plenty of pro on the route, so you can aid past just about any hard part. Especially the crux.

By Wes Turner
From: az
Oct 4, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

who would want to do that? wait until the lead is a serious challenge. don't get on it when you have to aid it! It would be a waste of an incredible climb

By Wes Turner
From: az
Oct 4, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

my main pt in saying that it was steve grossman who did it first was that I think that this climb is stiff for the grade not run-out. I should have made that clear.

By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 4, 2004

On the Lemmon, this is a standard 10a crack. A 10a climber with good crack climbing skills does not have problems with this straightforward crack climb. Unfortunately, Lemmon is not the place to get those skills.

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Oct 5, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Yeah, I agree that it's pretty stiff for the rating.

You'll never know how good/stiff it is if you don't get on it. I think we've all gotten on some things with a "I hope I can make it" attitude. I know lots of people who do.

Ithink it's good to know that you're not screwed/going to lose gear if it turns out that you can't finish the pitch.

By Wes Turner
From: az
Oct 5, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

My reasoning behind the .10b was....is the crux harder than the crux on Single lense reflex?...Yes. and single lense reflex is a .10- for sure so Centerpiece =.10b..that's how I felt about it.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 15, 2005

This climb was fun. Good holds, good feet, and plenty of rests to place gear. I was climing it last Saturday (11/13/05) and took a 25' wipper towards the top and I broke my ankel. It was in the crack and twisted as I fell. I had to bail quick so if anyone gets on this amazing climb soon, you'll find a BD #3, #2 and a blue alien I had to leave behind. I hate leaving gear, expecially when it's my friends. So if your feeling kind, write a comment here to let me know if you would be willing to get my gear back to me but if not, you got hooked up. CH

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 1, 2005

I think what Wes said is right on. I led it today and was kinda spanked on the top part (just below the bomber hand crack at the top)where it's a little wide and you have to use a face hold w/ not great feet.

I didn't find it so easy to pull on gear there at the wide spot below the top crack, and thought this was stiff for 5.10. Better to be solid @ 10's before you jump on this one.

Great climb still!!!

By jbak
Sep 5, 2006

If you have big fat hands this climb can feel pretty hard. I did this route with my Wyoming buddy "thin-hand" Paul. After I cried about how hard it was, he said "That crack would be 5.8 in Vedauwoo". Ouch.

By Jimbo
Feb 3, 2007

I've always thought Single Lens Reflex was harder than Centerpiece. Plus the direct finish up the face on Single Lens makes it a more interesting climb than Centerpiece.
Weird how one route is harder or easier for different climbers???

By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I suggest bringing pro from .5" to 2" including 3 x #1 Camalots. I brought 2 #1's and would have easily found a place for the third one. Awesome climb (though the business isn't very long)!!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great finish. too bad the rest of the climbing is less engaging. The grade will depend on hand-size- the smaller the better. I had only a very light rack and I'd placed my 2.5" cam already, so I had to run out at the top with no gear in the crack and so I was facing a long fall. Honestly, with my small hands I felt quite secure. The crux was pulling into the crack over the bulge and getting the feet up. I thought SLR was harder. My partner who has large hands, cruised SLR and dogged this one at the crux. So, I guess it's like Indian Creek climbing- either it fits, or it doesn't.

One thing we can all agree on. Great route!

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Thanks Joe for the master Beta :-)