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Centerfold 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Max 2008
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: V.X. on Jul 3, 2012
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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first half of "Porno Book" and set up a gear anchor in an acute gully below a diamond shaped face on the right. Keep looking right for a single bolt near a tiny horizontal seam. Climb the nonexistent horizontal seam out right on knobs and crimps to a vertical seam. Launch up the vertical crack. Place pro when you got it and keep looking for useable face holds. When the crack disappears, tiptoe out right on small holds. Pretty full-on from start to finish. Build gear anchor on top. Get a great preview of this climb from the "Full Tilt" ledges.


Protection 

#00 TCU, small cams, offset stoppers, bolt.



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By John Jackson
Jul 4, 2012

First ascent should say Max RODATZ. A bold lead of a fine climb.