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Wall of the '90s
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.30-06 T 
Alone Time with my Banana S 
American Mustang S 
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Casual Stone S 
Centerfold S 
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Foxy S 
Goin' The Distance S 
Hey Good Lookin' S 
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Leftover Stuff S 
Litlle Kitten S 
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Porn Queen S 
Pretty Woman S 
Recovery S 
Reefer Madness S 
Roadrunner T 
Slender Babe S 
Slinky S 
Stone Free S,TR 
Sweet Thing S 
Ten-Digit Dialing S 
Vixen S 
Wet Dream S 
Wiled Horses T 
Y2K S 

Centerfold 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Bracksieck, Steve Sarns, & Mike Endicott, 1978?
Page Views: 6,896
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 24, 2001

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Just got a slide scanner and unearthed old slides....

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 of Centerfold takes the dihedral corner of the huge right-facing dihedral in the middle of the Wall of The '90s. The seldom done second pitch runs up the overhangs directly above. P1 is a great warm up for the harder climbs on the wall, works well as as a top rope, and provides access to the top of Ten-Digit Dialing.

P2 is a lot more fun than it looks, and it is unfortunate that it sees such little traffic. The climbing on P1 is generally obvious until the last move, just keep the stems going and it will pose little difficulty.

P1 also makes a nice entry to leading 5.10 being a safely bolted climb with lots of good climbing features and a crux right at the end. Stems, jams, and edges abound to make the climbing overall really enjoyable.

Protection 

QDs only. This two pitch route needs 7 - 8 draws for each pitch and something for the douple bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. Double ropes rap 100 feet to the ground from the top of pitch two, or bring a 60 meter rope.

Note: this route was essentially excavated from layers of decomposed and loose rock and thus, this would NOT have been anywhere near reasonable to lead on gear in its original state.


Photos of Centerfold Slideshow Add Photo
Koko, in the centerfold.
BETA PHOTO: Koko, in the centerfold.
Nate Oakes on Centerfold.  About to stem across and pull over the bulge to the anchors.
Nate Oakes on Centerfold. About to stem across an...
Mike Endicott leading p.2 in Sept. 1982.  Good pro.  No bolts.  No choss.
Mike Endicott leading p.2 in Sept. 1982. Good pro...
beta photo
BETA PHOTO: beta photo
My first .10 lead.  Fun route.
My first .10 lead. Fun route.
On the verge of a panic attack, thanks to motivational talk from my belayer and some saintly passers, I cleaned up my act.  Very fun route!
On the verge of a panic attack, thanks to motivati...
Mike Endicott leading p.2, Sept 1982.  Good pro.  No bolts.  No choss.
Mike Endicott leading p.2, Sept 1982. Good pro. ...

Comments on Centerfold Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2001

All due respect to the first ascensionist, but I cursed him thoroughly as I lowered off the 2nd pitch anchors. The anchor bolts are arranged so that the rope MUST go into a crack with a sharp edge. Thought it was going to slice my rope like a knife through butter.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 19, 2001

I moved those anchors precisely to prevent this problem, and my own trip through after the shift produced no threat of shredding the rope. Can you help me out here?
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 24, 2001

Real rock climbing on the first pitch not just grabbing holds. Extra credit to anyone who offwidths the end instead of laybacking.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 29, 2001

Peter, I will take the credit about the offwidthing the end. Full body (munes one leg) in that sucker. That is a tight squeeze in there wouldn't suggest it to anyone over 145 lbs. You may get stuck, expecially towards the top. Once you figure out how to get your feet up on the block inside the crack you are set. But good luck, feels a little harder than 5.9 done this way. But a bit of fun, being protected by bolts and all.. Cheers.
By Bryson Slothower
Jun 4, 2002

The second pitch is of high quality although there are a few spots of bird dookie. I found the crux to be down lower than where it is shown on the topo at a wide spot in the crack, above that it never felt harder than 10.b. I had a hell of a time trying to lower back to the anchor at the top of Reefer Madness as I was left swinging in the air about 20 feet out from the belay. The rope got stuck in the crack a few times (this was on 06/03/02) and I started to fear a mini epic with a stuck rope or worse a cut rope as a swung out to free it. I found out that it was only 100 feet to the ground from the top anchor only after I got down but would not have thought I was would be able to make it with a single rope just by looking at it, oops. My advice, do not try to lower or clean your own gear off this route and be careful where the rope lies when rapping back to the ground.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 28, 2004

Does anyone know the name/rating of the new bolted route following the arete to the left of this climb? Thanks
By Doug Redosh
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One can also continue to stem thru the crux, using a hidden foothold on the R wall. Good question as to why this is bolted.
By Tod Anderson
Jul 7, 2005

This climb as well as many others in this area were essentially excavated from layers of decomposed and loose rock. Although that may be hard to believe when doing 10 Digit Dialing and others now this would NOT have been anywhere near reasonable to lead on gear in its original state.
By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
May 4, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Led first pitch sometime last year, went out to work Ten Digit last week and top roped through the 2nd pitch and found the largest pile of bat crap I have ever seen. And you have to get disturbingly close to it to continue making progress. I think it bubbled a few times. Sounds funny until it's right there in front of you...gross.
By GeoffElson
Jul 16, 2008

I agree with the above comments about climbing this on gear, I am personally disappointed that this is bolted. This is an ultra-safe and straight-forward lead, and a near classic for the grade. Too bad it isn't any longer.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'd love to go back and lead this one on gear. I too am confused as to why it was bolted. It looked as if it would greedily gobble great gobs 'o gear graciously. Great!
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

9+?? Only if you don't do the second pitch. The second pitch is hard and steep. There are big jugs, but long reaches. I would say it is harder than Hot Stuff, Recovery, Little Kitten, Foxy, etc. which are all near by and rated harder. I think the consensus rating here comes from people skipping pitch 2... maybe I'm wrong. The guidebook calls this 5.10b, and I still think it is harder than several 10b's at the wall.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 10, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The stemming makes it pretty easy. No hands rest every move.
By George Bracksieck
May 25, 2010

Yesterday, I followed David Light up both pitches of the climb now known as "Centerfold." David easily avoided using all of the 20-plus bolts installed for protection and belay anchors. Solid nut and cam placements made for secure anchorage at the right end of the ledge atop pitch 1. On pitch 2, we stayed in the left-leaning crack-and-chimney system, merging with the bolted line just before the crux, where I crimped with my left hand and reached deep inside a solid flake, removing a cam and getting a jam. Just above, I was stabbed in the back by the next-to-last (16th?) protection bolt, while scrunching toward the final jams and buckets.

My only other time on that route was in '79 or '80, when Mike Endicott led both pitches. Kevin Smyth and I followed. For pro and belay anchors, Mike placed only stoppers, hexes and rigid-stemmed Friends. We belayed on the far right end of the same ledge, and walked off after topping out. I recall that the route had some loose rock, yet was reasonably safe and clean. Comments that the route was "excavated from layers of decomposed and loose rock" are merely attempts to assert penile superiority through heavy massaging of the electric drill.

Claiming first ascents, whether after drilling, trundling, or grasping lichen-covered holds, is a vain pursuit. Layton Kor and contemporaries likely climbed "Centerfold," "30-06," and "Roadrunner" long before I did (19721981). By the way, the first time I met Layton was while climbing parallel routes at "Creekside" in 1973.

As an aging has-been who's fortunate to be getting out two (sometimes three) times a week, I feel confident that I can lead both pitches of "Centerfold" and avoid using all of the bolts. I enjoy clipping bolts on nearby routes and placing gear when bolts aren't needed.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2010

Did the Platte River flood Clear Creek? ;)

The routes you mentioned are great climbs indeed!
By dlight
Jun 3, 2010

Dear Richard,
I have a particular interest in a route known as Centerfold in Clear Creek Canyon, and I am writing to you because you are credited with establishing the route.
In my humble opinion, the Wall of the Nineties is the best crag in the canyon because of its fine traditional climbing on steep and compelling lines such as Thirty Aught Six and Roadrunner, Centerfold is also an excellent crack climb.
My good friend George Bracksieck told me that he first climbed Centerfold in the 1970s with Mike Endicot and another climber named Smith. Mike led both pitches, no fixed anchors were established, unfortunately they did not record their climb and they did not name their climb.
Inspired by this history, George and I recently climbed Centerfold without the use of any bolts. We climbed two pitches, the climb is well protected and there are good belay anchors on good ledges. The second pitch deviates from the bolted line and climbs the chimney on the right. The current grading seems accurate.
Good trad climbs are few and far between in CCC. I believe that Centerfold could provide a more valuable climbing experience if it was restored to a traditional route.
What do you think?
sincerely,
David Light
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 4, 2010

So let's get this straight:
Mike Endicott, George Bracksieck, and Kevin Smyth climbed this in the late '70s. They may or may not have been the first to climb it. When they climbed it, it was likely loose/friable and generally not that good, so they didn't bother to record their ascent.

Later, Richard Wright and Tod Anderson came along, likely spent a LOT of time cleaning the crap rock off, and bolted it because, as far as they knew, nobody had ever climbed it, and it made a logical warmup climb for the neighboring routes they were installing that do not accept gear placements.

So the FA should be credited to a different person. Easy enough to change.

There's an established precedent in climbing that the FA party has, to some degree, "ownership" of the route. In other words, the FA party gets to describe the style that they think the route should be climbed, whether it be a gear climb, a safely bolted sport climb, a scary headpoint, whatever, and future climbers should respect that. The question is, does the FA forfeit this right if they don't bother to report their climb in some fashion or another to begin with? This would imply to me that they don't really care what happens to or who gets the credit for the route after they've climbed it.

Climbing something, then coming back 30 years later and claiming that something that's been bolted in its current state for over 10 years should be chopped is kinda silly in my opinion. Also, the climb cannot be returned to its "traditional" state, pre-bolts... because it has been cleaned of loose rock since then.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 4, 2010

Actually, it was soloed in the '60s by Layton Kor. He didn't name it. Sorry, George, Mike, Kevin, and David, you were neither the FA nor have you climbed it in its original style.

If the bolts are removed from Centerfold, then I suppose it would be fair to remove all the pins from .30 06 and Roadrunner, especially at their cruxes. I can remove those pesky lower-off bolts from those as well. I have quite a collection of pins that I have removed already from the Canyon.

Now that we have more of you guys out of the wood work and on the interweb, any other routes in this canyon that you can claim for FAs or other 'trad' routes that are not currently documented that we can save from our bolt guns? If I do a revision to the book, I would like to include them. Thanks! unfortunately, in the late '70s, I was but a wee zygote, so I wasn't able to troll the canyon to keep up with the multitudes of flourishing FAs.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 4, 2010

Darren, I actually just onsight, free-soloed the Glory project, so add that one to the list! Thanks. It's actually a 5.9 now, cuz I took my drill with me and drilled jug-pockets on lead, so it's now a great warmup for Sweet Tides! Enjoy!

(I also added a jug-pocket on the roof of Double Stout and stole all the draws.)
By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just did the 2nd pitch for the first time. Ha I had an easier time climbing Reefer Madness, but fist jamming isn't so easy for a sporty guy like me. New 10 leaders, beware!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 21, 2011

But that other dude was saying that CCC ratings were soft!? ;)
By Karl Decker
Apr 26, 2012

Not that one, especially for sporty guys, myself included! I wanted the to jam the upper roof but felt it was too wide. Curvacious and Reefer Madness were easier for me.

10b leaders, BEWARE is the word, the second pitch is tough, the stemming is not so straightforward up there with the roofs! Not the warm-up I was expecting at all, but she went after some squirming/whining and I even got a bail biner out of it. Yeh.
By kipp.fo
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

That second pitch is hard! I left a bail biner someone claim it..Maybe I could have worked it but the roof was intimidating.
By Andrew Riley
From: Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh
May 9, 2013

Hey, I left a Gri-gri at the bottom of this climb on 5/8/13, checked today and it wasn't there. If you picked it up/found it, let me know and I'll buy you a six pack. - Andrew Riley 217-779-7779.
By George Bracksieck
Sep 1, 2013

I recently posted some old photos that I found of this route. So I must correct the name of one my partners: Steve Sarns led pitch 1. (Kevin Smythe did other climbs with Mike and me.) Steve, Mike and I climbed this route in Sept. 1982. We walked off after topping out.
By bonnie bonbits
From: colorado
Jun 9, 2014

Totally goes solely on gear. No bolts necessary. Definite G rating. Though no need to go chopping bolts. ...for the other climbers there sure get a tickle out of seeing one rack up with a full and voluptuous nearly double rack to #4 plus a #5 and a #6 and a dozen alpine draws. I took two #4s and aptly placed both. Had absolutely no use for the #5 and sunk the ol' battle axe #6 in the midst of the OW. Holy man, that thing is hYOUge! (...yes, yes, I know, that what she...). I totally stuck to the OW, though it was rather relentless about trying to spit me out. Thank God fer chicken wings! and the alternative, going out onto the face, reaching for iota bits, from stemming splits, not so enticing when you're barely 5'3" and there's a velcro crack right there, no matter how awkwidth it may be. (P.S. there's an awesome, little ditty waiting to reward those who stick to the OW.) The first pitch is pretty accurate at 5.9+.
By B. Smith
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 10, 2014

Loved this route as a warm-up.
By Kurtis Anderson
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first of climbing is probably closer to 5.9+/5.10a, but the last 15 feet or so is, in my opinion, closer to the guidebook rating of 5.10b - even harder if you OW the crux. For comparable grades on the same wall (and Clear Creek for that matter), 5.9+ doesn't seem fitting. It's true that the route has great rests, but I wouldn't tell someone who can't comfortably lead 10s to lead this route just because the consensus is 5.9+.

Overall, this is a great route that will challenge your footwork (in a good way). But for next time, I need to come back with my rack and do the first and second pitches on gear!!