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South Face
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Around the Horn S 
Grin and Barrett S 
Highland Malt S 

Around the Horn 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Barrett, Bob Ordner, 2008
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: kBobby on Sep 12, 2012  with updates from Nick Sweeney

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Description 

Slabby face climb with lots of chickenheads.

The crux is getting to and moving past the first bolt. (I found it useful to place a small cam (3/8") in the flake to get to the first bolt.) It is easiest to start as for the Right route, then traverse left on big holds until you are below the first bolt then go up. Much easier than starting direct.

This climb is not bolted as fully as the other two routes on this face (but it is certainly bolted well enough). If you want more pro, there is an abundance of chickenheads that can be slung.

Location 

The central sport route on the south face. 2-bolt anchor with rap rings shared with Highland Malt.

Protection 

Many quickdraws, a small cam (optional), slung 'heads (optional).


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By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of my favorite pitches in Spokane. No need for gear beyond quickdraws, but there are some long falls possible higher on the route. If you can get past the first bolt, the moves higher up should not be an issue anyway. Easiest way to get to the first bolt is a leftward traverse from the tree behind the right-hand climb, but the direct start is within the grade of the rest of the route.

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