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 ADVANCED
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center 
Left 
Right 

Center 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: kBobby on Sep 12, 2012
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Description 

Slabby face climb with lots of chickenheads.

The crux is getting to and moving past the first bolt. (I found it useful to place a small cam (3/8") in the flake to get to the first bolt.) It is easiest to start as for the Right route, then traverse left on big holds until you are below the first bolt then go up. Much easier than starting direct.

This climb is not bolted as fully as the other two routes on this face (but it is certainly bolted well enough). If you want more pro, there is an abundance of chickenheads that can be slung.


Location 

The central sport route on the south face. 2-bolt anchor with rap rings shared with Right.


Protection 

Many quickdraws, a small cam (optional), slung 'heads (optional).



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