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Center Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Guns Blazing 
Big Chief Arete 
Bird of Prey 
Blazing Buckets 
Eat the Worm 
Flamethrower 
Force Feed 
Funambulist 
Green Hornet 
Headrush 
Killer Bee 
Mohawk 
Mudshark 
Pow Wow 
Raindance 
Route Stealers From Hell 
Running Bull 
Toilet Earth 
Too Light to Wait 
Totally Chawsome 
Trail of Tears 
Travail Buttress 
Wampum 
War Paint 
War Path 
Wicked Quickie 
Witch Doctor 

Center Wall 


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Location: 39.2454, -120.2025 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,573
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 8, 2002
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Totally Chawesome

Description 

The Big Chief Center Wall is just that: it's big. It's basalt, and it contains many climbs for climbers of all abilities (5.7 - 5.13+). Most of the climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range on primarily overhung rock.

Most routes ascend only one pitch, though there are also a few 2 pitch routes as the top of the main rock, which peaks out at over 200 feet. It does seem that several routes could be added to the higher section of the rock.

Facing mostly east, you will find most routes in the sun for most of the day, though there will be some refuge in the later afternoon. There is also refuge in the cave, where the climbing routes get extremely overhung, tough, and short.


Getting There 

Approach time: 15 - 30 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After .6 miles of gentle dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

From the north pass, hang a left around the rock, and this will take you into the center wall area. The first bolted route you will see is called Eye of the Beholder (5.11c). Continue another 50 yards downhill to the main cave area, and more routes are further along.


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',9],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Center Wall:
War Path   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
War Paint   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Route Stealers From Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Too Light to Wait   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 30'   
Mohawk   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Killer Bee   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Flamethrower   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
Headrush   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Big Chief Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Pow Wow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Raindance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Totally Chawsome   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
All Guns Blazing   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Center Wall

Featured Route For Center Wall
Tony Bubb leads Headrush (11a) while Zander Rose is on Killer Bee (10c)... I think. Photo by Gwen Johnson, 9/03.

Headrush 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Center Wall
Located on the left side of the wall, Big Chief arete isn't really an arete for most of the climb. Instead, it ascends enormous clubic blocks that are either 45 degrees overhanging or 45 degrees slab. The climb is very similar in feel to its neighbor Killer Bee, but a little tougher because of a tricky roof about two-thirds of the way up. Vertigo will also be a factor, but its worth it!Don't pay too much attention to the topo in Carville's book. He has the relative locations of the climbs ri...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Center Wall
Photos of Center Wall Slideshow Add Photo
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Beta Heel Hook
The Cave
The Cave
Warpath and Warpaint
Warpath and Warpaint
Don't Fall
Don't Fall
10b
10b
Start of Mohawk
Start of Mohawk
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