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Thunder Point
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Center Tap Corner T 
Sunset Arete S 

Center Tap Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Sheets and Copeland
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: pete cogan on Jul 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Center Tap Corner. Scramble up to a big tree to be...

Description 

Yes, it is very short. This is Not the reason to come to Dream Canyon; however, it is a nice line, it has easy pro, and it's a terrific pitch to do at the start or end of your day. It's ideal for beginning leaders, and I would certainly do it again.

Scramble past trees and deadfall to the base of Thunder Point. Go up the right side to a big tree below a huge right-facing corner.

You can anchor the belay at this tree, 20 feet before the crack, then climb up the rock/bush section to the start. Once you gain the block, climb up the huge corner. You have two cracks for pro and some neat stemming.

You can also TR Sunset Arete (11d), but I found that the anchor placement meant the rope was sawing over the arete, which was disconcerting.

Protection 

SR plus 3.5 cam. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top for easy rap


Photos of Center Tap Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Thunder Point.  Sunset Arete (11d) is the sport route up prominent arete; Center Tap Corner (7) is a trad route up the corner on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Thunder Point. Sunset Arete (11d) is the sport ro...

Comments on Center Tap Corner Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Jun 1, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great crack climb with a stout start. wish this went on for pitches and pitches. I think the start is fairly committing for a beginning lead, would be hard work to sew it up although possible.
By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2006

Enjoyable lead. Be careful on awkward moves at the start - not a lot of pro down low.
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Starting beneath the roof was definitely the crux for me, but I found that it protects quite well. If one does not wish to lead through the roof, then the climb can started by traversing in from the climber's right above the roof; this traverse is a bit awkward but protects well.