Center Stage and All Alone
||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
|Original: ||A2 PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||John Kelbel 1999|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,722|
|Submitted By: ||Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: The start for Center Stage and All Alone is just t...
From the flared V-notch at stop work up to the thin crack on small nuts, micro cams, cam hooks, rurps and birdbeaks. Crux is likely passing the long rectangular block wedged in the crack about 25 feet up. Once at the roof make a move or two right and then back left at a horizontal. Some 5.6 slab moves will get you up the slab to the ledge and the anchor.
A great aid pitch for the intermediate aid climber. Good gear is had though there are several body weight only pieces. Be careful in the first twenty feet until i reliable piece can be placed.
While a great line on its on this is also the first pitch of the full length climb Spectacular Spectacle
After you have gotten yourself and all your gear into the pit. Locate the anarchy symbol. The climb starts in the flare to thin crack directly left of this graffiti.
To descend rap from fixed gear (two fixed nuts as of 06) on the ledge at the end of the route.
All the tricks of modern aid climbing. Though this was originally done with a hammer it now can go free. However this is dependent on the fixed gear that is in-situ so bringing a hammer and some thin pins/birdpeaks/heads is not a bad idea.
Nearing the crux on Center Stage and All Alone
Pulling on thin gear on Center Stage and All Alone
By Taylor Jenkins
Jul 10, 2013
If you want to climb this route cleanly you can get the job done with two cam hooks (1 medium and 1 large) and a couple of small beaks for hand placing. Everything else goes just fine with cams, nuts, and the few fixed pins. I'm not too sure what clean rating it deserves if you choose that style.
Be careful when cam hooking and beaking because it's low on the route and ground fall might ensue if you blow it. The crux placement getting past the block about 25 feet up works with a purple tcu but only two lobes were engaged when I did it that way (spooky!). A ball nut works well there but the best for me was a purple/blue Metolius offset tcu.