Center Route 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Bill Price, John Yates, and Jerry Anderson(1970) |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Dec 21, 2010 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route was first done in 1970. Today it sees little to no traffic other than the first 100' which is the same as Stonequest, put up in the late 80s. The route follows the most obvious path up Parkline Pinnacle. After the initial crack ends moves right to a 2 bolt anchor. The second pitch follows the obvious right leaning corner/seam past 2 bolts, step down and traverse 20' to the right and follow the finger crack up to some wider cracks then into a vegetated section for the belay. Continue up through more vegetation and dirty cracks for 2 more pitches to the top of the pinnacle.
Location Same start as Stonequest, leftside of Parkline Pinnacle
Protection pro to 4"
By Alexey From: San Jose Jan 3, 2011
| just few days ago I was climbing Stonequest and notice line of the bolts (5-6) + 1 piton between Stonequest and Chase leading to two bolts anchor [~150 feet] . Is this is Center Route ? looks like somebody put alternative start to it- right from initial crack of Stonequest |
By Jeff Scheuerell Jan 18, 2011
| Yes Alexey, it is a variation to the center route. First pitch follows 7 bolts to a corner. Place a stopper, clip a pin then head to a new (repaced the old anchor on the Center Route) 2 bolt anchor with chains. Also an optional micro cam before the anchor. There is also a variation on the second pitch that follows the arching micro corner passing 2 bolts plus a few micro nuts and small cams, then links back into the Center route. Jeff |
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