BETA PHOTO: This is a topo of the center portion of the main w...
The very center of the "Main Face". this face has five sport routes that are 18m and 20m. Two of the sport routes share the same start and end point. There are two trad routes which have the same start point, the second route forks to the right three quarters of the way up the first route.
There is a sixth unnamed sport route shown in the guide book, the guide books stats the route was scheduled for bolting during the time the book was written, however the route still is not bolted.
All of the routes are to the left of the stone hut built on the ledge. (Please do not disturb the hut)
This area is mostly shaded in the morning, however part of it stays shaded throughout the entire day. Periodic cooler breeze's take away some of the deserts heat.
The limestone here seems to be a bit more solid then in other places. The routes have been well cleaned but there is still a small amount rock and flakes on a few routes.
Just across the road from Cleavage. After the Wadi Bih turn follow the road for 5km to the t-junction. Turn right and drive for 8km where you will find a left turn (go left, if you go right you will run into the border post). Dickinadozer is about 8km past the turn on the left. The Main Face from the road. Park on the right side of road and it is about a 10 min hike.
The approach is very steep, with lots of loose rock. Continue up the slope towards the right, (seems to be the easiest route) There is a nice shelf at the base of the crag.
This route is the set of bolts on the far left side of the crag. The route curves to the right with a set or rappel chains at the top.If this route has a crux then it would be the traverse up and to the right between the last bolt and the bolted rappel chains. From the last bolt to the abseil chains looks rather tricky but it is much easier than it looks. The guide book rates this route at an F5 or 5.9. After climbing this route a few times I would rate it at a 5.7, the hardest portion being wha...[more]Browse More Classics in International