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 ADVANCED
Mule Hollow Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Face T 
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed T 
Everything And Nothing T 
Explorien T 
Glasnost T 
Ground Glass, The T 
High on Crack T 
Implorien S 
Jam Crack Route T 
Left of Center Route T 
Ravages Of Time S 
Sands of Time, The S 

Center Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,218
Submitted By: Mark Goodro on May 13, 2009

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Description 

The guide lists this as 3 pitches, 5.6R, 5.5R, 5.5R. Since then someone has added 4 new sets of bolts making an almost even 5 pitches. Pitch length approx 100 ft, 100 ft, 110 ft, 100 ft, and 85 feet. First two and last two pitches can be combined with a single 60m rope without excessive rope drag.

Location 

Wall is 3/4 mi up Mule Hollow gulch. Route starts up the face 75 feet left of Jam Crack, right of where a pair of diagonal cracks hit the ground, just left of a small vegetated crack. Need 2 ropes or a 70m rope to rap down, third pitch is too long for a 60m rope. Walk-off is long, vegetated, and dirty; both walk-off options take far longer than a rap down the face.

Protection 

Standard rack, small to medium pro. Runout face sections have been bolted, no pitches are R anymore. Bolted belay stations at the top of each of the five pitches.


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By Mark Goodro
From: Puget Sound, Washington
Jun 19, 2009

It looks like the bolts I clipped on this one are part of a new route, Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The bolts indeed belong to Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed, a nebulous squeeze located within feet of Center Face. Given that the existing trad line follows a number of discontinuous cracks and weaknesses peppered all over the face you end up zigzagging between belays and (gasp) crossing/merging with/climbing over the bolted line.

Just to be on the safe side avoid the bolts and wander around a few feet to the side of the bolted line where protection opportunities are plentiful but a bit spaced. A bit of creativity is required but you'll feel safe with a standard rack up to a #2, no doubles needed. If you don't want to make it too R bring plenty of long runners and go heavier on the small cams.

Use the bolted belays of DDD or run it in 3 pitches with the top of P1 being the only annoying trad belay (shallow alcove about 40m up, small nuts and cams). The top of P2 (big treed ledge) has a few trees to sling or you can sit behind a block and use a good old body belay.

5 single rope raps or walk off if you want to keep the adventure going.
By James Garrett
Jul 29, 2010

B,
Nice route name "Nebulous Squeeze"....will have to keep that one on the back burner.
Thanks!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

You should. Give them numbers too so you can keep track of how many established lines you've retrobolted and claimed as FAs.
Don't forget to engrave the hardware too...
By DrApnea
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Felt like 5.5. Fun but not more than a 2 star route unless you give it an extra because of the length. 5 Bolted anchors are there to rap off with a 60M rope when done. The retro-bolted version of this route (Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed) needs to be pulled. There are more than enough natural gear placements here even if you only bring a set of nuts, hexes, and slings.