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 ADVANCED
Grandma Peabody Boulder
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Center Direct 
Essential Peabody 
Go Granny Go 
Go Granny Go Right Finish (V5) 
Go Granny Ho 
Magnetic North 
North Face Direct 
SE Arete 
Southwest Arete 
West Corner 

Center Direct 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on Mar 21, 2009
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Description 

Tackles the belly on the north face of Grandma Peabody straight on. Begin directly under the bulge with both hands in the large undercling. Hard pulls (made easier with some foot tricks) lead to a small crimp or gaston and a grainy undercling. Make a brutal deadpoint to latch a thin, glassy crimp, then slap out left to huecos and good patina. Continue as for North Face Direct if you please, or drop off.


Location 

Out the steep bulge on Grandma Peabody, trending up and slightly left.


Protection 

A few pads are nice, and a spot for the crux moves.



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By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Mar 7, 2013

I believe the FA of the original line (pre-break) was Peter Croft.