Center Direct  5.9+ R

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Dean Moore and Charles Alexander, 1962/ FFA: Reveley and Erickson, 1974 Submitted By:  CHRIS.T on Oct 15, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare".

Pitch 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare", but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge (5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right-facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt (back it up). Look up to observe the large, old eagle's nest that looms above you.

Pitch 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts (same anchor as Where Eagles Dare).

Pitch 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or RP in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below a huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonally left (5.8+ s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge.

Descend the ledge west (4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.

A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.

Protection 

Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs, and long runners.