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Black Wonton, The T 
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Center Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Arni Kirbach and Carl Acker
Page Views: 2,305
Submitted By: Mike Baetz on Mar 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Jeff on a blustery October day


Climb the beautiful finger crack to two possible finishes, left or right, both ending at bolted anchors. Crux is just after the large block about 25' up.


Start about 40' right and down from the left side of the cliff at a slanting finger crack.


standard rack

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By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I would give this 5.7+ for the sustained difficulty of the climb without the kind of rests one often expects. Spectacular finger crack with thin feet in places. The route finishes on the right after the split, the left is the 5.8 direct finish. Worth a visit to the cliff on its own.

By Matt Conroy
Oct 24, 2009

Actually the left crack mentioned above is 5.7 as well. The direct finish jogs left further down (about 2/3 of the way up) and then turns right again before reaching the anchors. I do agree with the 5.7+ though.