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Center Cobblers Direct 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Late spring to fall
Page Views: 1,091
Submitted By: jeremy freeman on May 13, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Center Cobblers Direct

Description 

This route follows the most obvious line on Cobblers Tower. No information was known about the route beforehand, though a rusty bolt here and there were found along the way, and during our effort a handful more were placed. A fit and able party could make a huge day of it, but it's recommended to set up camp near the base.

P1: Climb a low-angle ramp to access the obvious rounded right-facing flake, pass a bulge and belay on top of the feature (5.7).

P2: Climb past two bolts on the slab. From here head up the next corner then traverse left to a steep headwall littered with huge jugs, then gain the splitter crack and belay here (5.7).

P3: Climb the chimney/corner and belay at a stance on the right with a bolt anchor (5.7).

P4: From the belay head straight up on 5.8 face to the bolt (very runout). A farther bolt out right leads to the base of the seam - either free climb or clean aid, belay on ledge (5.11a R/5.8 R C2).

P5: Climb the mungy crack to the big ledge (5.8).

P6: Easy 5th with a short crux (5.6?) to a huge ledge with a big tree (5.6).

P7: Continue to the summit via 4th-easy 5th class (do not miss the v1 dyno boulder problem, classic).

Descent: Retrace your steps back to the big tree and rappel from there. The first rappel will get you to the gulley that runs behind the Cobblers Tower (summer snow likely). Rappel again from a large bush down the gulley to the saddle. From here scramble down 4th class ramps and corners including a squeeze behind a chock stone and some route finding back to the base.

Location 

Cobblers Tower, Grey Towers, Mayfield Canyon approach.

Protection 

Double rack to 3", one 4"
One 60m rope will do it


Photos of Center Cobblers Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: follow the line
BETA PHOTO: follow the line
Rock Climbing Photo: wheeler crest power food
BETA PHOTO: wheeler crest power food
Rock Climbing Photo: Tai Devore starts up pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Tai Devore starts up pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Sexy bivy
BETA PHOTO: Sexy bivy
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Winters makes the second rappel down the gull...
BETA PHOTO: Adam Winters makes the second rappel down the gull...
Rock Climbing Photo: R.Shore following the crux P4. Pic: M.Moser
R.Shore following the crux P4. Pic: M.Moser
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Freeman starts the 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Jeremy Freeman starts the 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Winters on the left variation of pitch 4, Jer...
BETA PHOTO: Adam Winters on the left variation of pitch 4, Jer...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cobblers Tower from the base (left), descent gulle...
Cobblers Tower from the base (left), descent gulle...
Rock Climbing Photo: P6 getting cold
BETA PHOTO: P6 getting cold
Rock Climbing Photo: Peace making around the fire
Peace making around the fire
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down on the bivy
BETA PHOTO: looking down on the bivy
Rock Climbing Photo: Myles Moser coming up to the belay on P3
Myles Moser coming up to the belay on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: the summit!
BETA PHOTO: the summit!
Rock Climbing Photo: Early season descent.
Early season descent.

Comments on Center Cobblers Direct Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Apr 16, 2016

Good route, but strangely bolted on the crux pitch. You have to run it out like 50' off the belay and then make the hardest move yet just to clip the bolt, then bail off right to another bolt while many good stances were passed by the FA party. Beware the old notorious bronze-colored SMC hangers too. There appear to be 2 variations on P2 - the original FA party went out right past a few bolts, but it looked very difficult just to get over there. We went left past the one newer bolt. P6-7 link easily. We were able to downclimb off the summit into the snow-filled gully and then do a single-rope rappel back near the base.

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