A neat little crag that sees little traffic, probably in part because it's so damn hard to find. Most of the routes are short (~35 feet) the rock could be cleaned more, and it's probably best to toprope than risk trying to find sparse gear opportunities. (How about that for a stirring introduction??).
This blocky, downward sloping rock has a sharp arete with a massive dihedral as its defining shape. Toprope access and descent is via a chimney on the north end of the west face.
It is basically impossible to see driving east. 11.5 miles up the canyon and about 3/10ths of a mile past Castle Rock, you'll see a no parking sign for a parking area on the right side, with another no parking sign for the left side 50 yards further (facing west). Pass this, and then find a place to turn around - you've missed it. Best place to park is on the south side of the road 100 yards west of the second no parking sign. It lies on the north side of the road (it will be obvious to see once you're driving east), with about a 5 minute hike up a non-existent trail.
A hard route for the grade, with no pro down low. It would be easy to get injured slipping off the holds down low, which are surprisingly insecure for such good edges.There is more protection as you get about 20' up, but that is past the crux anyway.Down low get into the center area of a broad, black streak and find some good-angled crimpers - set feet and heave up onto higher holds, eventually heading slightly right to the right side of the back streak. A few small nuts could be placed there,...[more]Browse More Classics in CO