|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Currently a sandbag with all the flying-creature fecal matter on the holds up high. The first four or five bolts protect some decently fun and techie moves, but the top section—after the big ledge rest—felt just plain dirty and awkward. What's more, in place of nice Rawls, you have to clip some tat that is girth-hitched off old rusty all-thread bolts from a bygone industrial era. And the top anchors? Horrid. Sun-bleached nastiness and stiff biners' await you. With some anchor-love, however, this climb might be as popular as its friends to the right. The crux—which I thought came at the top—seemed much less straightforward than the crux to Flashflood.
Do everyone a favor and donate to the anchor-replacement fund at Wilsons.