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This route goes up the corner to the right of Blackman's Burden
and can share an anchor with Banana Split
. Start on some boulders and avoid a loose pinnacle of rock to the left. Work around into the crack proper and attain a three foot ledge. Be careful not to knock off fist sized rocks (or clean them if you are feeling charitable). More rocks will replace them, as more material pokes out of the crack. Some fist jams and wide fists get you to more ledges and rests. Some stemming also works on the right wall. Not entirely sustained or that technical.
Lead with trad pro up to 4 inches or TR from bolted anchors up and left on Banana Split
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbed this as a warm up. I would not recommend it. The gear placements weren't that great at the start. Lots of loose rocks, so make your belayer wear a helmet. Also, there is no way this is a 5.9. An 8, tops. I thought purple corner was harder than this (and it's rated an 8).