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Jailhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
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A Snitch In Time T 
Cell Break T 
Cellbound T 
Jail Bound T 
Jail Break T 
Margarita Crack T 

Cellbound 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Todd Swain, 1984
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Apr 10, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: "Cellbound". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Cellbound ascends the arete at the right side of Jailhouse Rock (more or less). Start on a crystal protrusion around the corner, ascend a short dike and thin crack to an extremely low-angle lieback that continues to the summit.

Vogel and Bartlett both rate this a 5.5, and Vogel gives it two stars. Personally, I thought it was a worthless piece of crap climb that wasn't worth the 3 minute approach. We climbed it the same day as Right On (also 5.5) on Saddle Rocks, and this is a MUCH easier climb -- if Right On is a 5.5, then this is 5.3 or 5.4 at most.

Protection 

small to medium rack


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By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 18, 2010

For Indian Cove, this is a fun little climb, worth doing if not for the 5.4 climb, then for the 4th class downclimb off the north side, which descends a wide, blocky dike past ledges.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2010

Hard to argue about grades when it's barely distinguishable from 4th class scrambling, but if you start on the actual arete and don't traverse in from the right (as it sounds like the author did) it's solid for the rating, the crux being the first couple of moves. It's worth a star or two. Comparing with Right On, a 4 pitch route that's probably the best thing of it's rating in Josh is hardly a fair comparison. Couple of cranks on incuts, some slabby sloper dishes up the arete, and a rounded lieback overlap to the top. Probably not a good "new leader" route, as there probably won't be much protection in the upper half (wasn't looking for pro possibilities, but the lieback flake was basically a bottomed seam/overlap rather than a crack).

I downclimbed about 10' left of Snitch in Time, rather than the north side, 4th class.
By Mary Moser
Feb 1, 2011

I agree this climb felt soft for a 5.5, but I would not want to lead it. There is virtually no pro to be had. The down climb off the north side on the wide, blocky dike wasn't too bad, but it would be nice to have a rap station at the summit. Options for building an anchor were a tad tricky.