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Celestial Gate 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gillett, Hill, & Gillett, 1994
Page Views: 3,513
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Josh Janes follows on pitch 3 of 'Celestial Gate' ...

Description 

Celestial Gate - what a phenomenal route! May even rival Days of Heaven.

P1: Do the dodgy original start or, better yet, do P1 of Days of Heaven, but walk the belay to the far left end of the foot ledge to the base of a nice finger crack.

P2: The crux pitch, but probably only 5.11. Climb up the steep finger crack with some creativity until you pull into a welcome fist-jam size constriction. This is where Days of Heaven P2 joins with the crack - follow it up to the super cool belay ledge below the hand crack.

P3: Follow the hand crack up for a few moves then reach left and clip a bolt. Follow the tremendously exposed bolted arete past a total of five bolts up to a nice belay ledge near the top of the wall. This pitch offers some fantastic, exposed face climbing, but if you're not in the mood you can do an 11b finger crack variation by following Days of Heaven for a bit before cutting out left on a thin crack, then up. Soft for 11c?

I loved this climb!

Protection 

SR + TCUs or RPs.


Photos of Celestial Gate Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Janes about ready to bite the bullet (or the bolt?) while following on pitch 3 of 'Celestial Gate' on Rock Of Ages near Estes Park, CO. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.
Josh Janes about ready to bite the bullet (or the ...

Comments on Celestial Gate Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

More info on P2, the crux and essentially a 30' variation to P2 of Days of Heaven. The first 20' feet protect well with small nuts; the rest of the pitch uses finger size gear -- you can get by with a very light rack. I found a stopper move about 10' up and did not have much problem with the subsequent endurance moves.

For P3 you need a couple of thin finger to hand size cams for 15' of crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Classic- at least as good as Days Of Heaven.
I imagine made the best if you continue P2 straight into P3 for one long amazing pitch. Grade? 11c or 11d. The original first pitch is not that bad and not that runout where it matters. It probably is close to 10a, but there are just a few moves around the slab to the right and the gear on the left is up high, where it would produce a reasonably safe fall. As well, there is an option to go up right on the corner and place a so-so red alien, though getting to and down from that might be the hardest move on the pitch... still advisable if you like to feel sewn up. The second pitch was not the crux for me. Though I followed that pitch, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow. The stances for placing gear are substantial enough to shake out on and frequent enough to be mostly on TR. The Third pitch is small balancy holds- felt like the crux to me and spit me off a few times- hope you have some shoes that edge or hold small chips well.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

"Though I followed it, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow." (quote from above comment)

Is this some sort of joke??
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

From my experience, Jeff, it's actually easier to lead this climb than to follow it. I've only followed it, however.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

"Is this some sort of joke??" Well, let's see:
"The stances for placing gear are substantial enough to shake out on and frequent enough to be mostly on TR."
There are climbs where you clip an easy piece over your head from a good stance then do a simple power move. The lead and follow on pitches like that are pretty much the same. I think it's a great route for people pushing that grade to attempt on lead.

Hmmm..... What did the guy who posted the route say about it? Called it 5.11 on lead. That was my partner who lead that pitch (and followed the rest).
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

(sigh)...
By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Nov 1, 2010

Breaking the rules here, but you guys are gay!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Wow, I thought that expression was from the '90s... You remember, right, when you were 4 years old?

Look everyone, another teen who lives with his mom just discovered the internet!
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Actually, Tony, I believe that phrase is alive and well in World of Warcraft.