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Cedar Lake Boulders

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Bald Hill Boulders 
Cliffs, The 
East Ridge Boulders 
Forest Street Cliffs 
Hogs Pen 
Rhododendron Boulder 
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Cedar Lake Boulders  


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Location: 40.9163, -74.4701 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,248
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dylan Randall on Sep 18, 2012
Forecast:
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Description 

Several boulders/cliffs spread throughout the forest surrounding Cedar Lake, in Denville NJ. The area is split into a few separate sections, each being around a 5 minute walk from the last. The spots are nice and shady, but in the summer will still be uncomfortably hot and humid. As of now, only a select few climbers know of the location, so all bouldering establishment has been done by 2 or 3 people. The rock itself differs between areas, but it's mostly sharp and crumbly. Expect a few of the problems to hurt.

NOTE: I've heard a few climbers have been around to check out these rocks. It would be awesome if those who have been here or plan to check the spots out make note of ascents, and help with the grading and rating of the problems! Currently the areas are only being established by 2 people, so the more climbers the better the area becomes.

Getting There 

You can access the boulders from Cedar Lake East. On the drive in, you will pass a beach on the left, then continue on up a gradual hill. You'll climb a steep hill, then begin descending quickly. The road will make a sharp left turn. Midway through this turn you'll see a straight driveway directly in front of you lined with small pine trees. Approach this, and turn right into a small unpaved area big enough for 2 cars. This is the main entrance to the woods/trail system.

Coordinates:
40.917655
-74.467598
(Decimal Degrees)

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.9 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',16],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Cedar Lake Boulders
On the start of Fanger Slapper (V5)

Fanger Slapper V5 6C  NJ : Cedar Lake Boulders : Hogs Pen
Begin under the overhang with a high left hand. Move right through razor sharp holds and top out at the right end of the boulder. Several flakes have fallen off the lower part of the climb, which now leaves the climber with several options for footholds. Sharp rock, but awesome powerful movement....[more]   Browse More Classics in NJ

Comments on Cedar Lake Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Mazza
From: NJ
Apr 5, 2014
I was unimpressed with this area. I'm always looking for small crags in the area with some (relatively) quality boulder problems. I visited the "Hog's Pen" area today. After a little bit of wondering, I arrived at the crag only to find a "frat retreat," if you will. It was frat camp out and they set up shop right in the center of the bouldering area. The lower area looked really chossy and had really poor rock quality so I walked up further. The higher wall seemed like it was better rock quality, although probably more suitable for TR than bouldering. Anyway, I did a couple v0's and v1's, some highball. I broke two holds during the process and almost came crashing down. I was kicking off footholds on my way up the problems. After almost falling back into a talus field after pulling off the second hold, I decided it was time to call it quits Maybe the other areas are better? Not sure, but the combination of poor rock quality, moderate problem quality, and a 20 min approach, I wouldn't recommend this spot. There are many other low-key bouldering crags in the area with much higher quality rock/problems.
By Dylan Randall
From: Paul Smiths, NY
Apr 6, 2014
Jon- Did you get on problems listed or just jump on whatever? As any barely traveled area, the rock will have loose blocks and breaking footholds if it has never been climbed before. Some of the problems posted here on MP (Pac Man's Lunch, Uptown Arete) have seen multiple ascents and are super fun for NJ standards. Maybe you missed them...

Either way, if you know of other secret spots you would rather spend time at, then by all means travel there. This area is just posted to let other NJ climbers know of some stones they can get on in this rock-deprived state.
By Jon Mazza
From: NJ
Apr 8, 2014
Dylan,

I did follow the beta listed here, but I had trouble identifying specific routes. I think I got on the two you named as well as "Fanger Slapper." Is Fanger Slapper on the boulder that has the fire pit up against it?

Of course I understand that any area that is being newly developed will have some loose holds and blocks. I just felt like the rock quality was significantly poor relative to other crags in the area. I really appreciate that you guys took the time to post beta on this spot and expand the knowledge base of bouldering in NJ. I've been hesitant to do the same because many of the spots I frequent are access sensitive. PM me if you want to exchange beta on some local spots and get out sometime.
By Dylan Randall
From: Paul Smiths, NY
Apr 9, 2014
Jon- Unless they built two fire pits, fanger slapper is a problem further up the hill! I wouldn't touch the fire pit side of the slanted boulder. But regarding local areas, I would love to give them a look. I'm in the Adirondacks until late May but I'll shoot you a PM around then