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Cedar Canyon

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9.987 Wall 
Bootleg Butte 
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Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile wall 
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Cedar Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 37.61602, -112.93205 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,183
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 7, 2007
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A view of Cedar Canyon from the upper tier.

Description 

This canyon was created by the old Lake Bonneville. The baby limestone found through out most of the canyon was formed from the lake receding and rising for a few thousand years. The rock looks like Spearfish Canyon in South Dakota, but its nowhere near as good, however there is good rock to be found here, and ALOT of choss too.

The best seasons are spring and fall but it is very possible to rock climb here in the middle of summer too.

A good but hard to find reference is Troy D. Anderson's semi-comprehensive guide, Metal In Your Head.

Getting There 

From Cedar City find HWY 14, this goes through Cedar Canyon. From HWY 89 take HWY 14 to Cedar City.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

96 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',9],['5.10',18],['5.11',15],['5.12',14],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',10],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cedar Canyon:
Open For Business   V7 7A+     Boulder   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Chain Gang   V8 7B     Boulder, 18'   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Dog Heaven    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
The Direct Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Bowling Alley : Main Area
Psychoslabaddict   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile w...
The Adventure Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rappel Wall Area
Velvet Jones   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Bowling Alley : Main Area
Faceplant   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Graveside Matter Wall : Graveside Matter Slab
Hells Bells   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
Undertaker   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
The Coffee Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Latency Peak
Catacomb   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Graveside Matter Wall : Upper Tier
Fallout   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Graveside Matter Wall : Graveside Pillar
La Santa Muerta   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
Evil   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Graveside Matter Wall : Graveside Matter Slab
Evil Twin   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
Death to Smootchie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Graveside Matter Wall : Graveside Pillar
Heucos from Hades   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier
Browse More Classics in Cedar Canyon

Featured Route For Cedar Canyon
Beta photo- To Much Cock Not Enough Lycra

Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Cedar City : ... : Graveside Matter Slab
Commonly know as "Too much chalk not enough lycra". Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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