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Cedar Canyon
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Bootleg Butte 
Bowling Alley 
Buddha, The 
Cedar Slide Bouldering 
Cetacean Wall 
Georges Stick 
Graveside Matter Wall 
Latency Peak 
Pillar of Great Price, The 
Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile wall 
Rappel wall area 
Sand Castle 
Slide Area, The 
Sunny Slabs 
Tunnel, The 

Cedar Canyon 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 32,569. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 7, 2007

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A view of Cedar Canyon from the upper tier.

Description 

This canyon was created by the old Lake Bonneville. The baby limestone found through out most of the canyon was formed from the lake receding and rising for a few thousand years. The rock looks like Spearfish Canyon in South Dakota, but its nowhere near as good, however there is good rock to be found here, and ALOT of choss too.

The best seasons are spring and fall but it is very possible to rock climb here in the middle of summer too.

A good but hard to find reference is Troy D. Anderson's semi-comprehensive guide, Metal In Your Head.


Getting There 

From Cedar City find HWY 14, this goes through Cedar Canyon. From HWY 89 take HWY 14 to Cedar City.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cedar Canyon:
The Windmill   V3     Boulder, 15 feet   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Bust a Move   V4-     Boulder, 10 feet   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Open For Business   V7     Boulder   Cedar Slide Bouldering : Flannigan Boulder
Unknown   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Sunny Slabs
Never Again   5.8-     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Bowling Alley : Main Area
Kingpin   5.8+     Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Bowling Alley : Main Area
Velvet Jones   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Bowling Alley : Main Area
Psychoslabaddict   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile w...
The Adventure Route   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Rappel wall area
Faceplant   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Hells Bells   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Undertaker   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
The Coffee Route   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III   Latency Peak
Lap Dance   5.10d PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Mulato   5.10d PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Fallout   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
La Santa Muerta   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Saturday Night Fever   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Psychoslab a.k.a 10 mile w...
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Graveside Matter Wall
Browse More Classics in Cedar Canyon

Featured Route For Cedar Canyon
Beta photo- To Much Cock Not Enough Lycra

Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra 5.12a  UT : Cedar City : ... : Graveside Matter Wall
Commonly know as "Too much chalk not enough lycra". Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


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