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 ADVANCED
The Mordor Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armaggedon T,S 
Bridge of Khazad-Dm, The T 
Cecile T,S 
Difficulties be Damned T 
Division of Labour T 
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 
French Connection T 
Grand Finale T 
Highway 61 T 
Lights in the Forest T,S 
Mines of Moria T 
MOE T 
Mordor Wall, The T 
Pendulum Route T 
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 
Unknown 
Unsorted Routes:

Cecile 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Jay Conway
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,275
Submitted By: jason conway on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Jay Conway at the end of the crux on Cecile.

Description 

This route is named after my grandmother. She is 91 years old and going strong. I am pretty sure if she started climbing tomorrow she would flash it by Friday and down rate it to 12a.

Pitch One 12c: 70ft
Start to the left of the pendulum tree. Clip a high bolt and do a boulder problem. Then place some gear and do another boulder problem to easier climbing and belay at a crack or at the tree.

Pitch Two 13d: 100ft
Free climb Topless Tellers (A4). The corner looks easy but is ridiculously hard. At the top of the corner make a spooky exit move, clip a new bolt, then make a puzzling traverse/dyno left into Mines of Moria (A2). Launch into a hard and scary boulder problem with big fall potential (only clipping the good bolt). Finish with awesome and exposed climbing to the top.

Location 

Pitch one starts just left of the pendulum tree. Pitch two climbs Topless Tellers into Mines of Moria.

Protection 

Pitch one requires a couple of cams and a nut. For pitch two, you need a blue and orange TCU and maybe a nut or green alien for the top.


Photos of Cecile Slideshow Add Photo
Conway taking the shorter fall off the crux.
Conway taking the shorter fall off the crux.
Jay Conway whips off Cecile. Photo by Jay Knower.
Jay Conway whips off Cecile. Photo by Jay Knower.
Conway starting the runout crux.
Conway starting the runout crux.
Conway on the holdless corner.
Conway on the holdless corner.

Comments on Cecile Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 1, 2008

Congratulations Jay!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 2, 2008

Nice work Conway!
By Dave Karl
Sep 5, 2008

Long live TRAD! Cathedral is not climbed out because bolts are not placed everywhere and adventure is still requireed. Nice job Jay.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 23, 2008

Looks like an insanely good line. Nice work!
By Cory B
Sep 28, 2008

Jay...It went?? Congrats!!

Cory
By jason conway
Sep 30, 2008

Thanks for the comments guys. It did go but after many many days of figuring, whimpering, and chickening out.

Certainly a memorable route for me!