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Turtle Rock
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Antidote S 
Cease Fire T 
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Cease Fire 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Curtis Glass - 1989
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: saxfiend on Feb 10, 2008

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Bryan on Cease Fire, Sandrock, AL.

Description 

Your first thought as you look up at this seemingly-unprotectable line may be one of awe that someone actually made the first ascent on gear. Your next thought will probably be something like "let's set up a toprope!" It's worth noting that a retrobolt of Cease Fire was subsequently chopped.

The route follows an obvious shallow right-facing corner for most of its length. Using crimpy laybacks and whatever holds you can find on the face, balance your way up the corner and then onto the left face about three-quarters of the way up. Pull a bulge using lichen-covered slopers and crimpers to reach the top.


Location 

Starts about 10' left of Shallow Stemming Corner.


Protection 

Micronuts, tiny cams and nerves of steel should be all you really need. Build a gear anchor at the top. A toprope can easily be set up by scrambling to the top of the pinnacle from the east end.



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By nevermind
Jun 4, 2008

This route is very easily protectable with small set of nuts. The only runout spot is at the top, where you can get two 00 TCU's in, one over the other...that's all for the last 12 or so feet, just rehearse it on TR first.