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CCK Direct is such a classic line that Williams lists it as a separate climb in his Trapps guidebook, so we'll list it separately here too.
P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a roof, then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge. Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings. 5.6, 120'.
Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, and traverse right to the oak tree. 5.8, 120'.
P2: Climb up directly behind the oak tree to a ledge and roof. Get pro in a horizontal, traverse right (either high or low), and make a tough mantle move past the overhang to a stance (5.8 PG-R). Climb up left-facing flakes, and continue straight up through tiered overhangs (small cams, some reachy moves) to the CCK crack. Follow the crack to the small roof at the top. When you see the pin leading right, go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack (crux) to the top for a spectacular finish. 5.9 PG-R, 120'.
Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch. Walk down the notch to a bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down.
The CCK approach trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The CCK trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. CCK starts about 15' right of Updraft, at a small left-facing corner.
Unknown climber, CCK direct near the top.
Unknown climber near the top of CCK Direct
Where do I go?
|By John Peterson|
Mar 1, 2006
When I climb the second pitch, I pull the initial overhang off the GT ledge as normal and then go straight through a small overhang (small cams). Sort of reachy. This takes you to the hand crack. At the top of the crack when you see the pin leading right go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack to the top. I don't think the top part is too bad - about 5.8 - but very spectacular.
NB: John is very tall! -Ed.
|By L. Hamilton|
Nov 27, 2006
No fixed gear the whole way as of 11/2006. A brilliant pitch with an exciting, slightly out-there finish.
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
Starting with P1 of Erect Direction is a great option for keeping the interest level high. Good warmup for strenuous things to come.
|By eric larson|
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
simply brilliant climb... if you think the original CCK route is good.. do the direct! three overhangs in 1 pitch.. plus the classic CCK flake... only downside is no airy traverse!
|By Michael G|
Sep 7, 2009
don't "step down" on the P2 traverse. You can stay high to make it more fun and interesting.
|By manuel rangel|
Sep 10, 2010
I climbed it after Labor day 2010 and there were three fixed pieces! None mine. None we could finagle, bring a steel 1/4" rod!
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Nov 8, 2011
One of the best 5.9's in the gunks. The first move/traverse off the GT ledge is I think the physical and psychological crux of the climb. If you blow it and you have a good belayer and a long sling I think you will stay off the ledge, but it would be a nasty pendulum. The rest of the climb has excellent gear, and is easier than it looks. If you use long slings this is much more enjoyable and natural feeling than doing the contrived 5.7 pitches.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Great climb. Be careful on the 5.8 PG/R above the GT ledge on P2. The moves there are awkward and if you blew it you'd take a nasty pendulum. There is a good #000 placement before the crux near the top.