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CCC Sucking My Will to Live CLOSED April 26-27 re-bolting
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Apr 25, 2014
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
Clear Creek Canyon's Sucking My Will to Live at Primo Wall will will be CLOSED April 26-27 so bolts three, four and the anchor can be replaced. Thank you all in advance for you understanding while this maintenance event takes place. Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
837 points
Apr 25, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
Thank you so much for your hard work! ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Apr 25, 2014
lobbing in Independence Pass
Bump for the local denver climbers. Travis24
Joined Apr 22, 2011
21 points
Apr 25, 2014
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
Another bump as folks are no doubt planning weekend climbing right now. Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
837 points
Apr 25, 2014
Crux Move
Awwww c'mon man! What else am I supposed to climb?! Why can't you guys do this in the dark?

/sarcasm

Thanks Joe!
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Apr 25, 2014
Phil Lauffen wrote:
Awwww c'mon man! What else am I supposed to climb?! Why can't you guys do this in the dark?

You can always put in a few extra hours for the "man" over the weekend. That oughta accomplish the same goal.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Apr 25, 2014
At the BRC
ChefMattThaner wrote:
Thank you so much for your hard work!


ChefMattThaner also wrote:
"You bad ass you Mark, tell us all more about your garbage leaving treks in Nepal again! Please!!! I may not ever end up going because I may end up not being capable of doing this. But I will try and for that is what really matters. I may not ever get above 8000m in my life, like the vast majority of mountaineers. But at least I can say I did not desecrate a perfectly natural area with my trash and pollutants trying to get there."


Isn't there an evil fixed rope across Clear Creek?


To the OP- thanks, looking forward to enjoying the new bolts despite the dire environmental impact. Sorry to muck up your thread but I just couldn't help myself, villain that I am.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Administrator
Apr 25, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
reboot wrote:
You can always put in a few extra hours for the "man" over the weekend. That oughta accomplish the same goal.


that sounds kinda dirty. did i read that right?
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Apr 25, 2014
Crux Move
slim wrote:
that sounds kinda dirty. did i read that right?


Why? You want my number too?
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Apr 25, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
Mark E Dixon wrote:
ChefMattThaner also wrote: "You bad ass you Mark, tell us all more about your garbage leaving treks in Nepal again! Please!!! I may not ever end up going because I may end up not being capable of doing this. But I will try and for that is what really matters. I may not ever get above 8000m in my life, like the vast majority of mountaineers. But at least I can say I did not desecrate a perfectly natural area with my trash and pollutants trying to get there." Isn't there an evil fixed rope across Clear Creek?



So you are comparing thousands of pounds of garbage and dozens of dead bodies to a tyrol???
ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Apr 25, 2014
At the BRC
ChefMattThaner wrote:
So you are comparing thousands of pounds of garbage and dozens of dead bodies to a tyrol???


The sanctity of Clear Creek means a lot to me
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 25, 2014
ChefMattThaner wrote:
So you are comparing thousands of pounds of garbage and dozens of dead bodies to a tyrol???



Sounds like you need a little refresher. Here ya go,

lnt.org/learn/7-principles
SDY
Joined Jan 29, 2013
11 points
Apr 25, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
SDY wrote:
Sounds like you need a little refresher. Here ya go, lnt.org/learn/7-principles



So you are also dumb enough to try and compare dozens of dead bodies and THOUSANDS UPON THOUSANDS of pounds of trash to a tyrol???

Please continue to cock up a perfectly decent thread letting people know about someone putting forth effort to make climbing better for others. You guys are all class.
ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Apr 25, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
How about instead of thread jacking this outstanding example of selflessness. Either of you want to hash this out over a beer, please feel free to come down to my restaurant. I am the Executive Chef at Great Northern in DTC. I work 5 days a week so just let me know when works best for you. I'm sure we can educate each other on a few finer points of life. ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
Apr 26, 2014
Mark E Dixon wrote:
The sanctity of Clear Creek means a lot to me


exactly

I woulda just replaced the bolts and had some lunch without batting the proj eye.

my wilderness experience all that fluffy bunny bs
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Apr 26, 2014
At the BRC
ChefMattThaner wrote:
How about instead of thread jacking this outstanding example of selflessness. Either of you want to hash this out over a beer, please feel free to come down to my restaurant. I am the Executive Chef at Great Northern in DTC. I work 5 days a week so just let me know when works best for you. I'm sure we can educate each other on a few finer points of life.


I don't know...I don't want to jump to conclusions, but you sound a little hot tempered :-)

Plus I've got a pretty busy desecrating schedule.

Anyway, bumping this thread to the front page is probably a public service.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 26, 2014
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
bump for Sunday climbers Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
837 points
Apr 27, 2014
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
Another bump for the Sunday morning sport crews contemplating a gamble against the weather. Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
837 points
Apr 27, 2014
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
SDY wrote:
Sounds like you need a little refresher. Here ya go, lnt.org/learn/7-principles


hehehe -- nice one

Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Apr 27, 2014
...
Re-bolting isn't easy work. Anyone that doesn't appreciate the effort of someone taking it upon themselves to make a route safer for the rest of us is an asshole. (Just my opinion)




Good deal on you doing the work!

Much appreciated! (Even though I no longer live over that way)
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Apr 27, 2014
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
It's sort of another thread bleeding into this one, Locker. I don't think anyone is upset about sucking getting new hardware. Thanks to the OP for sure. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Apr 27, 2014
At the BRC
Locker wrote:
Re-bolting isn't easy work. Anyone that doesn't appreciate the effort of someone taking it upon themselves to make a route safer for the rest of us is an asshole. (Just my opinion) Good deal on you doing the work! Much appreciated! (Even though I no longer live over that way)


Hope you're not referring to me with this statement. Seems like everyone posting really appreciates Joe's efforts.
I know I do.
I helped with the Anarchy rebolting last year (although it seemed more like I was just in the way of the people who knew what they were doing!) so I know how much thankless work is involved.

As Jon says, the silliness between Matt and myself is all a bleed over from this thread mountainproject.com/v/13-dead-...
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 27, 2014
...
"Hope you're not referring to me with this statement"

I wasn't. It was a GENERAL statement to one and ALL!


But really, what would you do if I had been?



;-)
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Apr 27, 2014
At the BRC
Locker wrote:
"Hope you're not referring to me with this statement" I wasn't. It was a GENERAL statement to one and ALL! But really, what would you do if I had been? ;-)


Clear up the misunderstanding by swearing my undying gratitude to route equippers.

I'm planning on hanging all over those new bolts as soon as possible. You can believe I appreciate it!
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Apr 27, 2014
...
Too many don't take the time to show their appreciation to those that bolt and re-bolt. More often than not, it's taken for granted.

My favorite are the complainers that have never placed a single bolt.

That the dude here posted the info in advance also seems like a nice thing to do.

"All is well on the homefront".
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Apr 27, 2014
The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.
Work is complete and it'll be ready for action again tomorrow AM. Lead bolts two, three and four upgraded from Rawl 3/8" plated three piece sleeve to SS glue-ins. See the SMWTL fixed hardware section for details. All three of the original holes were re-used.

Closure sign
Closure sign


Lead bolt two. SS glue-in re-used original hole.
Lead bolt two. SS glue-in re-used original hole.


Lead bolt three re-used original hole.. Beefy SS 1...
Lead bolt three re-used original hole.. Beefy SS 16mm glue-in w/ 12mm ring. Plenty of room for clipping a short draw and the kitchen sink for the uber dogger.

I tested out other theoretical bolt locations as the current one interferes with those utilizing the pinch. But, everything else had at least one draw back so I left it as is.


Old lead bolt four. Rawl 3/8" plated. Upgrade...
Old lead bolt four. Rawl 3/8" plated. Upgraded to SS glue-in.


Old vs new stuff. The cones on the old ones showin...
Old vs new stuff. The cones on the old ones showing plenty of rust. Bolt two and four were fairly loose.
Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2002
837 points


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