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Ginger Buttress
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Unimpeachable Groping 

Cayenne corners 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland
Page Views: 737
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 23, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: A photo with the route and bolts marked on it.

Description 

Cayenne corners is a sick route that gets a slightly vague description in the new guide book. The book shows only the first pitch with an ever-so-slightly misplaced arrow, it actually starts in the left facing corner just to the right. (cayenne corners, duh! excuse us, we're a little slow! LOL) The 10d pitch does not pull the roof proper but traverses to the right to pull it and then climbs the thin, long right facing corner. The 10c pitch was also great but the 6 inch piece was not needed in hindsight. (If you've gotten here clean, you don't need it, although it was nice to have... we bought one for the route and regretted spending the money) We placed it once: Apprx. 15 foot section of run-out 5.8 without it.


Location 

This route is easily recognized with Handren's guidebook by the roofs and corners. We were off our game as we let the arrow in the photo make us miss the first corner (cayenne "corners", duh!) and my buddy was lost under the 10d roof, pulling it directly for really easy face climbing above. Our rappel revealed the incredible looking corner that we missed on that pitch! (cayenne corners, duh!!) Basically its the route in the deep corner to the right of ginger cracks, power failure, and unimpeachable groping... Killer route, well done, definitely deserves the star!


Protection 

Double up on .5 and down; the 10d corner was mostly fingers. Single rack to 4". a few runners, 6" piece if you've got it.



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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Nov 9, 2009

FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland, 2000.
Total height: 690'
1st pitch:165' 5.9
2nd pitch: 185' 5.10d
3rd pitch: 110' 5.9
4th pitch: 140' 5.10b/c
5th pitch: 90' 5.9
rappel the route w/ two ropes

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Oct 24, 2011

It seems that the usually sound beta garnered from the Handren guidebook was not so sound this time around. If you want to hear a significantly more accurate description, read on. If not, well, we made it up the route with the Handren description, so you probably could too.

P.1 (165' 5.9ish) Climb a left facing corner in varnished rock, passing a bolt at the base of the corner. Continue up corner and crack, eventually stepping left to a two bolt anchor in white rock.

P.2 (180' 5.10+) Step back right into the crack and climb up to square cut roof above a right facing corner. Traverse right under the roof, pulling up and around into right facing corner. Continue up crack to two bolt anchor on the left.

P.3 (120' 5.8ish) Move left and climb the mossy crack left of a shallow dihedral. Follow crack until it is easy to escape right across slabs to the base of a pillar. Climb left side of pillar and belay on top from a fixed pin and bolt anchor.

P.4 (5.10 115') Climb the obvious splitter crack up to the roof, traverse right out under the roof and climb around the right edge of the roof. Continue up crack, past some foliage and mossy face climbing to a two bolt anchor on the left below a small roof.

P.5 (90' 5.9ish) Climb up past a fixed pin, traverse left around the roof, climb widening crack through some foliage to face climbing and a fixed pin/bolt anchor on the left.

Overall a good route.