|Type:||Trad, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland|
|Submitted By:||Jon O'Brien on Apr 23, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Cayenne corners||Add Comment|
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By Jon O'Brien
Nov 9, 2009
FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland, 2000.
Total height: 690'
1st pitch:165' 5.9
2nd pitch: 185' 5.10d
3rd pitch: 110' 5.9
4th pitch: 140' 5.10b/c
5th pitch: 90' 5.9
rappel the route w/ two ropes
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Oct 24, 2011
It seems that the usually sound beta garnered from the Handren guidebook was not so sound this time around. If you want to hear a significantly more accurate description, read on. If not, well, we made it up the route with the Handren description, so you probably could too.
P.1 (165' 5.9ish) Climb a left facing corner in varnished rock, passing a bolt at the base of the corner. Continue up corner and crack, eventually stepping left to a two bolt anchor in white rock.
P.2 (180' 5.10+) Step back right into the crack and climb up to square cut roof above a right facing corner. Traverse right under the roof, pulling up and around into right facing corner. Continue up crack to two bolt anchor on the left.
P.3 (120' 5.8ish) Move left and climb the mossy crack left of a shallow dihedral. Follow crack until it is easy to escape right across slabs to the base of a pillar. Climb left side of pillar and belay on top from a fixed pin and bolt anchor.
P.4 (5.10 115') Climb the obvious splitter crack up to the roof, traverse right out under the roof and climb around the right edge of the roof. Continue up crack, past some foliage and mossy face climbing to a two bolt anchor on the left below a small roof.
P.5 (90' 5.9ish) Climb up past a fixed pin, traverse left around the roof, climb widening crack through some foliage to face climbing and a fixed pin/bolt anchor on the left.
Overall a good route.