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cavers direct  
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cavers direct  

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: dave graham
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: mattgiossi on Apr 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

sit direct for cavers problem. start half way in cave on a small sidepull and a crimp make a hard move to rail and finish cavers problem top out in "the jungle".

Location 

middle of the cave down low

Protection 

pad


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By mattgiossi
From: warwick ri
Apr 16, 2012

im pretty sure i heard dave graham got the fa on this if not just let me know i will change it . really cool climb
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 23, 2012

You are correct sir. this route also goes by Another Dave Graham Route :)
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
May 18, 2014
rating: V8-9 7B+

The guidebook description and this description are pretty different. Anyone have a clarification particularly regarding the starting holds of this? Left hand crimp and right hand gaston sitting beneath the big bucket on the rail seems obvious but the kemple guidebook leads me to believe otherwise
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 24, 2014

Ian--

I don't have an answer for you, but I do agree with you. Everybody starts this problem differently and it makes a big difference in the grade. But, the lack of obvious starting holds is one of the reasons why this climb is only so so and why I've never had much interest in it. How did you do it?
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Jul 25, 2014
rating: V8-9 7B+

The start holds seem obvious to me, left hand on a low great positive edge and right hand on the small small gaston. Pulling off the ground is very hard and creates tension through the entire right side of your body, then levitate to hero jug. I don't really see another option for right hand start hold.

I did it the same way the dude in this video did it,




re: grade it's so hard to grade one movers like this since they either go or they don't, no idea, I don't think i've climbed v10 yet but people on 8a.nu seem to think consensus v10 though, who knows.

Christian you should get on it you'd put it down.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 31, 2014

Well Ian, I took your advice and checked out this climb again today. Success! I actually did it twice in a row because the move was so much fun.

I used the starting holds shown in the video. I agree that the Kemple guidebook makes it seem like the starting holds are something different. And very inobvious. So, I'm not sure what to say gradewise, given all that uncertainty. It definitely is a very fun climb. The double clutch move with a huge swing is probably the single most fun move at the Black Jacks.

Perhaps we should email Tim or send him a message on Facebook?
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Jul 31, 2014
rating: V8-9 7B+

Nice job Christian! I couldn't resist doing it a bunch of times when a friend was working on it because it's so fun. It's very strenuous and muscley though. Calling it 'Another Dave Graham Problem' is a disservice I think.