Note - A of the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The property line runs from the road where the trail near pole # 39 runs along the stream up between the Zig-zag Boulder and the Moat Boulder, up to a point just below Starship Enterprise Crag. It then runs west to the Boundary Boulder, where it then turns and runs up hill through part of the Prudential Crag.
The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
You are correct sir. this route also goes by Another Dave Graham Route :)
By Ian McAfee From: Nashua, NH May 18, 2014 rating: V8-97B+
The guidebook description and this description are pretty different. Anyone have a clarification particularly regarding the starting holds of this? Left hand crimp and right hand gaston sitting beneath the big bucket on the rail seems obvious but the kemple guidebook leads me to believe otherwise
I don't have an answer for you, but I do agree with you. Everybody starts this problem differently and it makes a big difference in the grade. But, the lack of obvious starting holds is one of the reasons why this climb is only so so and why I've never had much interest in it. How did you do it?
By Ian McAfee From: Nashua, NH Jul 25, 2014 rating: V8-97B+
The start holds seem obvious to me, left hand on a low great positive edge and right hand on the small small gaston. Pulling off the ground is very hard and creates tension through the entire right side of your body, then levitate to hero jug. I don't really see another option for right hand start hold.
I did it the same way the dude in this video did it,
re: grade it's so hard to grade one movers like this since they either go or they don't, no idea, I don't think i've climbed v10 yet but people on 8a.nu seem to think consensus v10 though, who knows.
Well Ian, I took your advice and checked out this climb again today. Success! I actually did it twice in a row because the move was so much fun.
I used the starting holds shown in the video. I agree that the Kemple guidebook makes it seem like the starting holds are something different. And very inobvious. So, I'm not sure what to say gradewise, given all that uncertainty. It definitely is a very fun climb. The double clutch move with a huge swing is probably the single most fun move at the Black Jacks.
Perhaps we should email Tim or send him a message on Facebook?
By Ian McAfee From: Nashua, NH Jul 31, 2014 rating: V8-97B+
Nice job Christian! I couldn't resist doing it a bunch of times when a friend was working on it because it's so fun. It's very strenuous and muscley though. Calling it 'Another Dave Graham Problem' is a disservice I think.