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Two bolted routes pretty much side by side. Both short in length approx. 40-50ft. One three bolt 5.9+ called "Use a gun, go to jail" the other a three bolt 5.9 called "Enter at your own risk". Short draws good. Decent rock easy on the hands,though a bit crumbly/gritty, usually in the sun until late afternoon. Very easy to locate and get to. Just a hop skip and a jump from the parking area. I would not call either a "Classic" or give them stars, but think both are worth a shot as alternatives to some of the more crowded areas. Nice warm ups for friction. There were at one point two anchors to rap off of. One is missing and the other is a bit questionable being rusted. No walk off that we could find that was safe. An alternate way off is to use the slung bolder at the end of "Enter at your own risk". Currently there are three slings. Two very stiff and one recently added by me 9/15/2003.
From the "Sheep Pass" parking area before the "Sheep Pass" group camping area park at the end and walk along the road going towards the group camping area. Walk around the first set of rocks and then take an immediate right as soon as you pass it entering an area between the rocks. Look to the left and BINGO!!! There you be.
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Use a Gun, Go to Jail 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cavern Rock
The climb is mostly friction with a bit of edging. The rock is somewhat gritty but it poses no problem. A few more climbs on it and it should clean up nicely. It is located at the end of the Sheep Pass parking area between Ryan Campground and the Sheep Pass Group Camping area. Walk along the road and around Grotto Rock going to the right and look left. It is obvious from there. It is the climb on the left and is in the sun most of the day....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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