BETA PHOTO: Cave Wall from the right.
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The Cave Routes can best be described as 4 routes of overhung powerful pumpy fun. There are no easy routes on the Cave routes, with all routes ranging from .11d - .12b.
These routes are always in the shade, being in a cave.
All routes share a common anchor some 30 feet off the ground. You can actually walk off of some of these routes, though an interesting mantle move into some mossy rock would be required, so lowering or rappelling off the top anchor is probably the best bet.
Approach time: 10 - 15 minutes.
From the point where Shell Road turns to dirt, the trailhead to The Welcome Wall, The Pit, Cave Wall, Ort Wall and Mid Wall is 1.2 miles further down road. There is a very steep turnaround on the left side of the road, but better parking can be had another few hundred yards past the trailhead. _BR_You'll know you're on the right trail when you see a telephone pole with the numbers 40 with an arrow to the left and 41 with an arrow to the right spray-painted on it just to the right of the trail (its about 25 yards from the road, and you won't be able to tell until you get closer). _BR_Once you're on the correct trail, it gets pretty simple. Follow the trail (watch out for poison oak) until it reaches a large talus field. Continue diagnally up and left as you're looking uphill on the talus, and soon you'll be beneath the Welcome Wall.
From the Welcome Wall, simply continue left and down another 2 minutes on the trail. You'll go down a steep trail between some rocks, and you fill find the Ort Wall on your left, The Grotto to the right, and The Cave Routes ahead and left.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Cave
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Cave:
Grotto Monkey 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For The Cave
Dwarf Toss 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: Central Sierra
: ... : The Cave
This is the second leftmost (uphill) route on the wall, and heads straight up for the four bolts and then traverses left to the top anchor. The first bolt is reachy, and the crux is getting yourself to it, so it's probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt. Crux is getting yourself over the first roof, and is quite hard if you're under six feet tall, though it can be done using a small sidepull grip below the corner of the roof.Once you get over the first roof climbing gets simpler, with ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 1, 2002
Note that my GPS wouldn't work underneath in the Grotto, so this is the best reading I could get.