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Cave Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Herbert Rickert, et al, 1959
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Jeff Dunbar on Jun 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The wandering, bushwhacking, yucca-battling Cave R...

Description 

Scramble up the 4th class ramp to the right of the huge cave at the base of the crag to a 2nd smaller cave directly above. Traverse 20 feet left to a rock horn above bushes and rope up here. The route links 2 more caves en route to the last pitch of the South Face route.

Per the Tucker/Steele guidebook, after roping up: "Face climb up and to the right of the horn. Proceed directly up to a narrow ledge which is followed out to the right. Protection here is poor. Approximately 20 feet right of a pocket, head up above a ledge into the 3rd cave. [belay here] From the 3rd cave, traverse left and up, around a large block. Easy climbing leads up a ramp to the right into the fourth and last cave. Traverse right about 20 feet. Climb up past a bulge by way of a small manzanita bush in a crack. Above this, follow easy cracks and slabs to the summit."

Protection 

Same as South Face route?


Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Dawn on the sidewalk up to the third belay after the one, way-too-short, climbing section.
Dawn on the sidewalk up to the third belay after t...
From the Tucker / Steele guidebook, route.  169= Cave Route (5.5)
BETA PHOTO: From the Tucker / Steele guidebook, route. 169= C...
You can sum up the whole Cave Route in one word: yucca. (Dawn keeps a smile between puncture wounds...)
You can sum up the whole Cave Route in one word: y...

Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
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By aa-lex
Jul 5, 2007

I climbed this route recently and found that it was mostly 4th class scrambling, with no more than four or five easy fifth class moves. The highlight of this route is seeing all these caves up on the rock...... kinda cool. By the way..... the approach sucks.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 11, 2008

If you think the approach sucks, try this route... (To clarify, I love the approach from the front-side.)
By aa-lex
May 11, 2010

Awww come on Jeff... wheres yer sense of adventure? This route was fun! Not a clean route, but reminiscent of the mountains (just more bushes). I did it as a scramble so if yer expecting a clean trad lead maybe not for you. But as a day hike and rock scramble definitely a nice day! Look at it this way: if you climb this thing, then your ready for most of the approaches in RR.
By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Nov 28, 2010

One of the caves on this route has a cool boulder problem exiting straight out of the cave. Two or three strenuous moves then back to the low angle stuff.

The runout traverse getting to the cave is on a two foot wide ledge. It's not that bad.