Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.
Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Route from the base. The route follows the l...
Runout if you don't have a #4
Clark, starting up
Last couple of moves before the chains.
Clark working through the hands section.
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 11, 2006
The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start.
|By George Vigeon|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 6, 2008
Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route.
|By Dean Cool|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008
I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.
|By Nate Brown|
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 6, 2009
this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules.
|By Jared R|
Mar 1, 2010
Fun route. There are some really cool and different moves on this route that make it really fun. The jams are good and the mantels are fun. I recommend doing it.
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|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
5.7++++++ but totally fun. I dropped a #5 camalot in at the bottom.
|By Dann R|
From: Hermosa Beach, ca
Jul 9, 2013
I agree. The first half is probably 5.6. Then, at the top half before chains, it's a possible 5.8.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
If this is 5.7, Ashtar Command must be 5.6
I thought it was pretty cool... was expecting a sandbag from the guidebook description... and it definitely did not disappoint!