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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Cave Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,917
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (244)
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I loved this climb, My feet fit in perfectly. But...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great thin hands crack route hidden behind a large block leaning against the cliff a hundred yards or so left of Battle of the Bulge. Work your feet as you jam up into the darkness, safe with the knowledge that you will indeed find a bolt anchor up there. Look around, a little creativity can aid in the struggle. Be careful when pulling the rope, or the crack will eat it. Bump this two star route up to three on a hot day.

Protection 

2 0.5 camalots, 3 0.75 camalots, 5 #2 friends, 2 #1 camalots, 1 2.5 friend


Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Route
Cave Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Brette Harrington makes the Cave Route look like a...
Brette Harrington makes the Cave Route look like a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance nearing the anchor.
Lance nearing the anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom sending in the cave
Tom sending in the cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulos on the cave route
Boulos on the cave route
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Sinner Cruising the Cave
Adam Sinner Cruising the Cave
Rock Climbing Photo: On a downright hot november day, this route was a ...
On a downright hot november day, this route was a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: our friend justin. pretty sick
our friend justin. pretty sick
Rock Climbing Photo: cave cruise
cave cruise
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Route (Mark Ellefson)
Cave Route (Mark Ellefson)
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing into the darkness...
climbing into the darkness...
Rock Climbing Photo: another generic cave route shot.  I single-handedl...
another generic cave route shot. I single-handedl...
Rock Climbing Photo: November snowfall in Indian Creek seen from the en...
November snowfall in Indian Creek seen from the en...
Rock Climbing Photo: pumpy layback clips!
pumpy layback clips!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ginger climbing toward the darkness, Cave Route, I...
Ginger climbing toward the darkness, Cave Route, I...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top looking down
View from the top looking down
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach on belay and me on the climb.
Zach on belay and me on the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Route
Cave Route
Rock Climbing Photo: in the cave with my son 05
in the cave with my son 05
Rock Climbing Photo: Look out for cave dwellers, this mean looking suck...
Look out for cave dwellers, this mean looking suck...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kind of a funky photo of me belaying  Scott.  He i...
Kind of a funky photo of me belaying Scott. He i...
Rock Climbing Photo: cave route
cave route
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the shade on Cave Pitch
Enjoying the shade on Cave Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect splitter!
Perfect splitter!

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 28, 2015
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 6, 2001

This beauty is great for practicing jamming in smaller sizes. You can stay on your feet, in the crack, the entire way (I have medium hands and feet). This is especially true, since its a little less than vertical. This route is about 2 stars. Since its in a "cave", it provides nice relief from the hot sun.
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Nov 19, 2001

I have larg hands; #3 Camalots is a great jam. I climbed it with 1 #0.75 Camalots and 8 #1 Camalots. The route in my opinion deserves 3 stars. No jamming for me, lay back and stemming. I could not see the anchors until I was able to stem. Despite being relatively short I was worked by the time I reached the stem rest.
By Jason Wells
Nov 29, 2001

I'd suggest going with the recommended rack at the top. The size most of the way is bad for both .75 and 1 Camalots - #2 Friends are key.

I'd also agree with Mike - jam this sucker. It's great practice for the size and other climbs where laying back is not an option.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It can be done on a single green camalot (.75) and then reds (#1) the rest of the way.

Don't ignore the no-hands stemming rests.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nice climb with an interesting location - perfect for those warm days.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Sep 18, 2007

Or rainy days!! Yeah I agree a single .75 and about 5-6 #1s will sew it up.
By Clay Rardon
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 17, 2008

I gave this route 4 stars because it's a great splitter and IT'S IN THE SHADE! It can be sandy and gritty if it hasn't seen traffic since the last storm. Even the most Creek worn hands should take heed.
By Ranchhand
From: Bend, OR
Aug 9, 2008

good warm up for those with big hands wishing to get into the 11s at the creek, in my mind its an 11 for gorilla mits, man those feet are tricky to trust, the hands are okay, but one helluvah route, never climbed in a cave before, so i give it 4 stars for its uniqueness
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route is amazing - thin hands splitter for 80' is nice enough on it's own, add in the unique location and beautiful setting and you have a 4-star classic on your hands. I used two .75 camelots and probably 5-6 #1's the rest of the way. It does open up a bit at the top, you may feel better with a #2 on your side. How you choose to approach this thing will greatly vary your experience - I had a struggle-fest to the top leading it, but all my friends walked the damn thing just laybacking it the whole way. Can't say enough about this one, definitely do it!
By Brian Alexander
Sep 8, 2010

I have fat hands and this route was very difficult for me. I placed several 0.75 Camalots through the middle section in addition to lots of #1s. #2 Friends would have been a little more convenient but Camalots worked fine.
By Martin Harris
Oct 23, 2010

dont wimp out and lie back work the ring locks and thin hands all the way up
bring lots of #1's
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun cramming. Beautiful red camalots the whole way, bring 2 yellows and a green (save one yellow for the top). Nice a cool in the sun in a very neat environment. Especially good for small hands people, pretty tight for me.
By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
Nov 28, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much.

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