|The Swamp Boulders
Start matched on a decent crimp down and right. Make a large move out right to a flat left hand sloper. Hit the huge sloper rail with your right hand and get an ok heel hook on the rail with your right foot. Bump up to the top of the rail then make an awesome move to another flat sloper with your right hand. From here, you get a decent undercling with your left hand and find the correct feet and body tension to make the massive throw to the juggy undercling with your right hand. There is a good edge up and left of the undercling that should make the top out not too bad.
Being in a cave is good because it stays cool during the warm months but it gets damp when it's humid out and the flies are terrible. The best time for it would be Fall but it's climbable year-round.
This problem is inside the Stoner Cave. Immediately as you enter this cave you should see the problem on the overhung wall. Just look for the big undercling up and left of the start and the other holds should be obvious.
A few pads but more importantly, spotters. The first few moves have a wall behind them. It would be hard to dab but you could definitely hit your head. Additionally, I would check out the top out before trying it because it was very dirty last time I was there.
|By Tony Pepperoni|
Mar 4, 2014
The rock on this climb is, for the most part, superb. The movement on it is unique and difficult. It does need some scrubbing. But in my opinion this gets 3 out of 4 stars. A great undone problem.
From: plymouth, nh
5 days ago
Where is the 'Stoner Cave'? How do you get there?
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
5 days ago
I agree that the directions to this climb are a little vague.
Anyhow, it's probably easiest to follow directions to 'Mouthful of Chalk' to get to this set of boulders. If you do that, this project is located in the next cave to the north (probably a couple hundred feet or so away from the 'Mouthful of Chalk' area). It should be fairly obvious when you see it.
And yes, this project looks super high quality. Very cool rock.
|By Brian Nugent|
4 days ago
From Mouthful of Chalk, just walk to around the corner to the right of the problem and look for an opening to the cave formed by the Mouthful boulder as well as 2 or 3 other boulders.