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Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Between Heaven and Earth  T 
Bolter's Lament T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Element X T 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
Natural Mystic  T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Physical Graffiti S 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seams Beyond Variation T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Cave Pitch 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,418
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jan 1, 2002

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Spelunking on Redgarden Wall......

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  • Description 

    More of a land mark than a route, this is the cave just below the first pitch of The Naked Edge and just up and right from the top of Touch 'N' Go. This is the most common approach to the Edge, it leads to the rappel route down T2, and allows access to the Upper Ridge. From the anchor atop Touch 'N' Go 4th class for 100' to the base of the cave. Climb up and right through the large roof, awkward 5.8 to a good crack that leads to the bolts after 15 more feet. Either continue up, traverse to the Upper Ramp, or rap to the ground in three raps from bolted a [description ends here]


    Up to 3".

    Photos of Cave Pitch Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stone exiting the cave with The Naked Edge in the ...
    Stone exiting the cave with The Naked Edge in the ...

    Comments on Cave Pitch Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 14, 2003

    A #4 Friend is critical for protecting the moves out of the cave.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 8, 2004

    Isn't this pitch part of T2?
    By Jim Amidon
    May 25, 2005

    A #3 and #3.5 Camalot are fine for this short and fun pitch. I'd say it has less bird shit than any other route to the Upper Ramp. If the Upper Ramp is your destination and want a direct route, this is the one.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Nov 4, 2007

    A wild move for 5.8, too bad the start is marred by tons of bird crap.
    By Tom T
    Dec 23, 2008

    A really great, unique pitch. I like the "face-out/chimney" move entering the crux.
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Dec 31, 2008

    A #4 Friend is not necessary. Not even sure where one would place it. I placed a #0.5 Camalot. Then a good green or purple C3 (blue or black Alien) and a small nut, then back cleaned the 0.5. Then pulled the roof.

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