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> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower Two
Cave Man
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Tower Two
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Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Falcon Corner Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Insane in the Brain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Dave Madera 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,209 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Sep 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Although Cave Man is a step down in quality from the routes to the right (Déjà Vu, Insane/Reality Check, and W&W Power) because of a significant patch of choss above the cave near the top, it is the longest pitch of the bunch and it has some great movement over airy terrain. It shouldn't be missed if you got a thing for Hellgate limestone.
Cave Man starts maybe 15 feet left of Déjà Vu on easy ground (5.8ish) protected by a few solid cams in pods, until the first bolt is reached about 35 feet up. When we climbed it (8/5/11), two of the hangers had loose nuts which we could only hand tighten; a wrench would be useful. Rated 11d in Ruckmans' guide, but no way.
Cave Man starts maybe 15 feet left of Déjà Vu on easy ground (5.8ish) protected by a few solid cams in pods, until the first bolt is reached about 35 feet up. When we climbed it (8/5/11), two of the hangers had loose nuts which we could only hand tighten; a wrench would be useful. Rated 11d in Ruckmans' guide, but no way.
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