Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fountain Lip Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Direct 
Fountain Lip Traverse 
Rocket Ship 
Unknown- Slab Route 
Unsorted Routes:

Cave Direct 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,800
Submitted By: James Van Horne on Jan 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kevin Cady on CD.
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is at the north end of the Grocery Store Wall. As you walk down the trail, the first boulder you will come to will be the Stage Boulder, and down and to the right of that is the cave. The route traverses left to right on the crimpy rail eventually reaching the rail at head hight then a dyno to the jug on the left.


Protection 

A pad is nice also be careful not to hit the block on the left as you dyno.



Photos of Cave Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Cave Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Direct.
Catching the dyno.
Catching the dyno.
Cave Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Direct.
Zac Baits.
Zac Baits.
Scott on the crux.
Scott on the crux.
Zac Baits.
Zac Baits.
Moving through the crux on Cave Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Moving through the crux on Cave Direct.
Cave Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Direct.
Misha working the moves.
Misha working the moves.
Cave Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Direct.
Comments on Cave Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2013
By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Jul 16, 2006
rating: V6 7A

This is hands down one of the best problems at Castlewood, if not the best.

By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
Aug 7, 2006
rating: V6 7A

I have to agree with you completely. What's even better is that there are endless variations starting lower and lower in the cave, increasing the difficulty to up to v10 or so.

By Andrew Iltis
From: Denver, CO
Jun 19, 2007
rating: V6 7A

The moves require super sweet body tension, but the last chuck for the jug is tainted by the swing into the block directly behind. I would say for the rating this is one of the best, but definitely not THE best. Try Punani or even Tiger Woods. The latter requires just as much tension but has a clean swing upon latching the toss to the jug.

By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Jun 27, 2007
rating: V6 7A

I said it may be the best, I'd have to agree that Punani and Tiger are the other contenders. I didn't hit the block on the dyno on cave direct, so maybe that's why I love it so much...I'm sure after/if I send Punani, I'll like it more...it is, after all...Punani.

By GeoffElson
Jan 11, 2009

Where is the start exactly for the V6 at the rail straight below or on the low left rail? Also reading at castlewoodcanyonbouldering.blogspot.com/, the author says that a dab on the boulder doesn't invalidate the climb is this what most people agree to or have most of you figured out a way not to dab?

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Aug 24, 2009

But since when does Justin Jaeger count? He in-himself is a dab.

By j.jaeger
Nov 23, 2009

Thanks, Tom.

The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.

To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.

Just sayin'....

As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-facing pocket down a tier. Some folks were close in '05/'06, but couldn't avoid dabbing on the block in the landing.

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Dec 19, 2009

JJ,

No worries thanks for the beta today. Had a great time.

Here's to the little dab! Salud!

What about Cave Route Direct Direct Direct? Starting on the jug and going straight up to the crimp. Match and don't go to the jug but jump to the crimp straight up. Eliminate par excellance. Came close today, but the finger hurt so I had to back down.

By Squish
From: Lakewood
Jan 13, 2010

When was the last time this problem was attempted? I was there several weeks ago in December and noticed another hold broke off. A crucial foot which I totally need to change my beta, b/c I can't even get into the crux sequence anymore =(

By Andrew Vojslavek
Jan 23, 2011

I don't know if the breakage has really done that much to change the grade, at most now it is a v7.

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
May 27, 2012

Hopped on this yesterday, no dab and felt very 6-y to me. Definitely not 7.

By Eli streed
Nov 10, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Another large break:( The large hand hold in the corner of the first ledge system right where it starts to go diagonal is completely gone leaving a tiny sharp jib in its wake. Painful and hard. No comment on whether any harder, since I have never sent it, but it is definitely harder than last year. Come check it out.