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Cave Crag
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Cave Crag 


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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 11, 2007

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Simon high on the 2nd pitch of Warfarin, 5.10c (E2...

Description 

Cave crag offers step climbing on good quality mica schist. The crag is split into two distinct tiers.

There are a good variety of bold trad routes and hard sport climbs to be found.


Getting There 

Drive through Dunkled and take the first right after passing through the village (A923). Take the second turning on the left and drive along a single track road. Take a left turn, after a cattle grid, and park up on a grassy turn out.

Follow the path from the parking lot along the hillside. After 400 yards take the right fork and follow it along until some rocks appear. Cross over a stream and then take a right up the hillside. The lower tier is reached by traversing right early. For the upper tier continue on up the hillside, until the obvious cliff is reached.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cave Crag:
Coffin Corner   5.9     Trad, 100 feet   Upper Tier
Marjorie Razor Blade   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet   Upper Tier
Rat Race   5.11b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Upper Tier
High Performance   5.11b     Trad, 100 feet   Upper Tier
Browse More Classics in Cave Crag

Featured Route For Cave Crag
A climber starting up the classic Rat Race

Rat Race 5.11b PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : Upper Tier
The first free ascent of Rat Race was a break trough in Scottish free climbing and is still a hard tick to onsight.1. Climb up the pod like crack on the left of the steep central wall. Climb the crack above to a difficult section exiting the niche at 2/3 height. From the niche continue up the crack to the hanging belay.2. Make hard moves of the stance and gain the right trending groove. When possible pull left through the roof on huge holds for spectacular moves. Continue on up the sho...[more]   Browse More Classics in International