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 ADVANCED
Cannibal Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Man in Every Pot S 
Baseboy S 
Baseboy (Bolted Variation) S 
Caliban S 
Caustic Cock S 
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie S 
Fear This S 
Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport) S 
Have a Beer with Fear S 
Ma and Pa Kettle S 
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese S 
Maneater S 
New Wave Hookers S 
Nipple Fish S 
Pickled Cock S 
Save the Heart to Eat Later S 
What's Eating You S 
Wonderstuff S 
You Are What You Eat T 

Caustic Cock 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Dan Kruleski, Shelby Shelton, Richard Harrison, Sal Mamusia (1991)
Page Views: 8,384
Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006

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Veaz swinging from the final hold on a twilight se...

Description 

This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder. Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins. From here it gets steep and interesting. The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt. From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors.

This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer. The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome. Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!


Protection 

4 draws to clip pro with, and 2 more for the anchor at the top.



Photos of Caustic Cock Slideshow Add Photo
Caustic
Caustic
Roberto de la Riva shaking out
Roberto de la Riva shaking out
Finally made the anchor.....What a fun climb.
Finally made the anchor.....What a fun climb.
a free solo of caustic by Matt Lloyd
a free solo of caustic by Matt Lloyd
Near the top of Caustic Cock.
Near the top of Caustic Cock.
Big whipper from the anchor
Big whipper from the anchor
the pump factor
the pump factor
me chalking up before the crux of Caustic on the Cannibal Crag in Red Rocks
me chalking up before the crux of Caustic on the C...
Terence Kudo on Caustic Cock.
Terence Kudo on Caustic Cock.
Fall from the fourth bolt.
Fall from the fourth bolt.
Dustin Johnson throwing in a heel hook on Caustic Cock.
Dustin Johnson throwing in a heel hook on Caustic ...
Climber on Caustic Cock
Climber on Caustic Cock
Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock.  Photo was taken by John Tremblay.
Ian Wolfe pulling the crux moves on Caustic Cock. ...
Unknown female climber working the route at sunset (Dec. 27 or 28, 2013).
Unknown female climber working the route at sunset...
Gene on Costic.....Where are those anchor chains?
Gene on Costic.....Where are those anchor chains?
at the start
at the start
Comments on Caustic Cock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 22, 2014
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)

Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries.

By Zach Allen
Sep 8, 2006

A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again.

By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2007

I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks.

By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Aug 21, 2007

Gary.....thanks for adding that bolt, otherwise I would have not considered leading this one. Great route.....pummmmmmmpy!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route.

By dnoB ekiM
Oct 4, 2009

This might be one of the best and is definitely the most photogenic 11B in RR. Don't let the description above discourage you. I am the biggest sport climbing wuss there is and I never felt like the 4th clip was "scary" or sketchy in any way...the third bolt is at your feet at worst...as I recall.

I agree with the others, the first bolt is a smart addition. I'm glad FA-party finally warmed up to the idea. I've climbed the route with and without it (as it has been placed and pulled multiple times in the last 10 years)...and it is a bit sketchy without it. The TCU's go in the pockets about 2/3's the way to the second (or first...) bolt. That said, it is sketch just to get there. Much better route with the lower first bolt in place.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

HOLY SHIT this climb is a bucket of joy. Exposure, jugs, gripability, and quite a long way from that last bolt if'n you don't have the strength to clip the hooks at the anchor. (I should know. My belayer, new to the ways of the Gri-Gri, didn't know to pay out slack--was just letting me PUUUULLLL my way through the clips. And? I didn't make that anchor clip. I can tell you, overhanging 11b is the ONLY way to fly...)

BETA SPOILER: The third and fourth clips (or fourth and fifth, depending on whether that first, controversial bolt is in) aren't as desperate as they initially seem. THIRD CLIP: cam a left foot deep in that small cave/hueco and pivot easily off your right foot for clipping/sorta-resting pleasure. FORTH CLIP: Keep working up, young hero, until you can get a half thigh-bar for your right leg to make this clip easy, too.

ALSO, all the jugs up top are enticing, but work way right, initially, for the best, most positive holds. Then start jugging back towards the anchors. That shit just above the last bolt is just that: shit.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

On 5/14/10 the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced the second bolt on this route- moving it two or three feet to the right, onto the main bulge of the route. It is a 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.

The bolt was moved this far because we were unable to place it near enough to the original location to facilitate clipping for shorter folks before they would have to commit to the moves above the bolt. The rock in between the old bolt and new bolt is hollow and unsuitable for bolting, thus the new position. If you have any questions or concerns about the location of this bolt, please let us know.

By Alex "Tojo" Kray
From: Tempe/Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

the bomber ledge just above the 4th bolt has a horizontal low-energy hand jam out right for those with no endurance =D

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sweet route. Climbed it with headlamps. None of the clips were scary at all, just don't try to clip high I guess.

By Manjushri
Aug 16, 2012

I climbed this yesterday and noticed a definitive wiggle in the last bolt, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" when I jerked the hanger around with a draw. I'll try to coordinate a replacement soon.

By MN norske
From: Henderson
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed this a few days ago. Felt soft for the grade. Epic climb for sure. The last bolt is still loose.

By Adam Floyd
From: Las Vegas
Jan 22, 2014

Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and in conjuction with the LVCLC the last pro bolt on this route was replaced with a 6 1/2" FIXE glue in.