Caustic Cock 

Someone placed a "new" bolt at the bottom of the route. Climbers used to have a runout to get to the first bolt, starting the nerves before the real fun even began. =)

Edit: I agree with Gary, in that on such a popular route the added bolt down low has certainly saved some injuries.

A local told me that there was originally a bolt there, but it was chopped because of its proximity to a faint petroglyph. The bolt occasionally reappears and is chopped again.

I asked Paul before I replaced the bolt. Now you don't have to go to the hospital if a hand hold breaks.

Gary.....thanks for adding that bolt, otherwise I would have not considered leading this one. Great route.....pummmmmmmpy!

Would be hairy without the 1st bolt. The book mentions a TCU placement, not sure where it would go... The crux is quite pumpy, especially if you try to clip the 4th bolt from down low. Sack up and gun for the jugs, the fall is clean. The top has fixed sport anchors now, only 4 draws required for the route.

This might be one of the best and is definitely the most photogenic 11B in RR. Don't let the description above discourage you. I am the biggest sport climbing wuss there is and I never felt like the 4th clip was "scary" or sketchy in any way...the third bolt is at your feet at worst...as I recall.

I agree with the others, the first bolt is a smart addition. I'm glad FA-party finally warmed up to the idea. I've climbed the route with and without it (as it has been placed and pulled multiple times in the last 10 years)...and it is a bit sketchy without it. The TCU's go in the pockets about 2/3's the way to the second (or first...) bolt. That said, it is sketch just to get there. Much better route with the lower first bolt in place.

HOLY SHIT this climb is a bucket of joy. Exposure, jugs, gripability, and quite a long way from that last bolt if'n you don't have the strength to clip the hooks at the anchor. (I should know. My belayer, new to the ways of the Gri-Gri, didn't know to pay out slack--was just letting me PUUUULLLL my way through the clips. And? I didn't make that anchor clip. I can tell you, overhanging 11b is the ONLY way to fly...)

BETA SPOILER: The third and fourth clips (or fourth and fifth, depending on whether that first, controversial bolt is in) aren't as desperate as they initially seem. THIRD CLIP: cam a left foot deep in that small cave/hueco and pivot easily off your right foot for clipping/sorta-resting pleasure. FORTH CLIP: Keep working up, young hero, until you can get a half thigh-bar for your right leg to make this clip easy, too.

ALSO, all the jugs up top are enticing, but work way right, initially, for the best, most positive holds. Then start jugging back towards the anchors. That shit just above the last bolt is just that: shit.

On 5/14/10 the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced the second bolt on this route- moving it two or three feet to the right, onto the main bulge of the route. It is a 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.

The bolt was moved this far because we were unable to place it near enough to the original location to facilitate clipping for shorter folks before they would have to commit to the moves above the bolt. The rock in between the old bolt and new bolt is hollow and unsuitable for bolting, thus the new position. If you have any questions or concerns about the location of this bolt, please let us know.

the bomber ledge just above the 4th bolt has a horizontal low-energy hand jam out right for those with no endurance =D

Sweet route. Climbed it with headlamps. None of the clips were scary at all, just don't try to clip high I guess.

I climbed this yesterday and noticed a definitive wiggle in the last bolt, maybe 1/16" to 1/8" when I jerked the hanger around with a draw. I'll try to coordinate a replacement soon.