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Bighorn Mating Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bighorn Mating Grotto Circumnavigation Route (Free Muff-Willy) T 
Book of Changes T 
Caught Inside on a Big Set T 
Dangling Woo Li Master T 
Euphrates T 
Morning Thunder T 
Take Two, They're Small T 
Unsorted Routes:

Caught Inside on a Big Set 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Craig Fry, February 1985
Page Views: 3,730
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Kip firing Caught Inside on a Big Set Grottostyle

Description 

Directly across from the Book of Changes, jam and layback a steep thin hand crack. Higher, step right into a wide hand crack. Straightforward walk off.


Protection 

to 3.5". 3-4" anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2012
By Joe Dawson
Jan 18, 2006

Here is a little fresh beta:

Gear for anchor on first pitch 1” to 4”.
Gear for anchor on second pitch 0.5” to 4”

I found the second pitch of the climb enjoyable - nice hand crack. The downclimb from the top of the first pitch looked very unappealing. 5.6? I think most parties will prefer to do both pitches and should be prepared to do so unless you don’t mind a 5.6 downclimb.

Descent: Take a look at the topo for D. Dome. There is a bolted anchor for one of the climbs on it that you may be able to get at. We did not see it, and the following is what we did. After you top out on the second pitch head left and look for a medium size tree near the edge with some slings on it. We cut off all the junk on it and replaced it with two red cordalettes in Dec 05. One rope rap. Once you are down, if you are facing the wall you rapped down, head right a bit. You will come to a gully choked with some giant boulders and you should be able to see the anchor bolts and slings for Book of Changes off to the left. I am told this is a one rope rap with a 60 meter rope. Alternatively, we went right and scrambled down a 4th class gully that had plenty of loose rock to make things interesting. Once u get past that u are home free. I think the descent sucks.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

we did the descent as described above, but instead of the gully (which we didnt know about), we rapped Book of Changes with a single 60m.

good fun, but be careful on the descent, that little boulder gully presents some interesting challenges!

By RTM
Aug 26, 2009

So, is it 'Caught Inside' or 'Caught Outside'??

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 28, 2009

Caught Inside - as in you can't get out to catch the set (of waves).

By RTM
Aug 28, 2009

Another one of lifes great mysteries...solved! Thanks Chris, Bartletts guide has it as Caught Outside.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 28, 2009

I thought it was caught inside the tube of a big set...

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 28, 2009

The term for that would be "in the green room", Adam.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 2, 2009

Extremely fun! Felt a bit soft for the grade (But then again, I did this a long time ago)

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 19, 2010

> Caught Inside - as in you can't get out to catch the set (of waves).

Slight correction - can't get out before you get dumped on by said set of waves. Usually at the point of getting caught inside catching a wave isn't the predominate issue on mind.

By Phil Esra
Jan 5, 2011

What Ryan said--i.e., you're going to get wrung out. Soft for Josh. A 3-star climb in a 4-star setting. Really tough to find.

By andre kovacs
From: san diego, ca
Jan 28, 2011

Possibly the best route in BHMG. Eats up gear all the way and changes from a layback crack to a nice hand crack halfway up the route.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The 2nd pitch looked pretty trivial and we were at dusk needing to get out, so we we scrambled off the first pitch. It was probably 5.0-5.3 scrambling, nothing too hard. We headed climbers right then down, did a little chimneying, climbed up all land of the lost style over the low wall with the easy crack and back into the grotto oasis.

A pretty cool climb, although, as previously noted, it is probably overrated in difficulty as it was no harder than Dangling Woo Li Master.

Definitely coming back to this spot!

By Richard Shore
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

My 500th route in JTree, and possibly in my top 10 favorites here. I felt this was a touch harder than Dangling Woo Li Master, but I think being tall allowed me to simply reach past most of the crux moves on that route. I watched 3 other parties have difficulties with CIOABS, and all of them cruised DWLM easily.