Cathouse  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  25.1058, 121.9227 Map Page Views:  137. Good page?    Administrators:  Nate Ball, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Nate Ball on Jul 2, 2012 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Me climbing RastaBirds.

Photo by Matt Robertson.

Description 

The Cathouse is one of the least accessible and least visited areas of Long Dong. The only bolts here are anchors. However, for the adventurous traditional climber, this is where it's at. A concentration of super high-quality routes ascend the cracks that break up this multi-tiered section of cliff. The grades are between 5.8-10d.

The approach can be treacherous during high tides. If you're thinking of climbing here, scope the waves from the southern Golden Valley ledges. Some of the climbs start on the thin walkway itself, but the majority start on the ledge above. This ledge is set far above the waves, and is an extraordinary setting. If the seas are calm, you can even traverse around the base of this cliff towards the sea, and take a dip in the perfect self-contained pool.

The cliff faces east-southeast. Lots of morning sun, dipping into the shade in the late afternoon. It can be exposed to a lot of wind and spray, as well.

Getting There 

From the southern parking lot, descend the Golden Valley trail. When you find yourself at the base, turn right and head south past the Golden Valley climbs, until you have to climb a ramp up to the overhanging start of routes like Golden Shower. Continue past Tofu Tower and multi-pitch sport routes. Beware of waves and slick rock at high tide!

Routes like Catapult begin at a flat section of rock at the base of a wide, broken 20' dihedral. This is the approach to the main area, containg routes like BA Insanity. This section is 5.2ish, but can be treacherous with a big pack and crashing waves. Be careful.

The Classics

Featured Route For Cathouse

Rastafarian Seabirds 5.9  International : Asia : ... : Cathouse

This is the route that's furthest left on the wall. To the left of this, the wall becomes crumbly plant-covered choss. Climb a brief hand crack that ends below a small roof. From here, traverse left, turn the corner, and continue through horizontals to a big grassy ledge. Head up an obtuse dihedral with minimal protection to another smaller ledge. Beware of loose rock here. A final section of strenuous hand crack takes you to a pair of anchor bolts without a stance....[more]   Browse More Classics in International