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Upper Breadloaves - East
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Catwalk 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: Dave Clawson on Feb 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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This is me leading Catwalk

Description 

My favorite route on the wall. It is located near the south end of the wall and can be identified by a large right-slanting undercling flake about 2/3 of the way up the climb. There are not many protection opportunities for the first 60 feet or so. I used a small cam in a small vertical crack near the bottom to protect some slab moves before the easy face with large buckets. This bucketed face leads to horizontal cracks the fun undercling and a runout easy Finish on huge holds.

Descend: The easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor.

Protection 

Standard rack, slings to prevent rope drag


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By Ben Folsom
Aug 27, 2007

Yeah, this is a nice route and as Greg said, the easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor.
By schojess
Jul 12, 2010

Agree; very fun route, and one of my favorites in the city. Nice variety, from face to undercling to crack. I recall doing it as 2 pitches with a 50m rope.
By Nick Borys
Jul 18, 2011

Nice route indeed.

The descent description of Ben and Greg is good. From the top, down climb to the ledge to the south and follow that west (less than 10 ft) to some chain anchors to rappel from. A 70m rope made it down to the ground just fine. A 60m rope might require a bit of easy down-climbing.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 19, 2014

Very nice route. The slab at the bottom is the crux and you can get a micro nut below the cam. Bring lots of long slings. Easy to traverse north to the chain anchors above Fred Rasmussen and get down with a single 60 from there.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Jul 28, 2014

This is a really good and fun route. It would be much better with a set of chains on top. I have suggested this to Brad Schilling and will continue to do so. Might help if others suggest it also. This way, you could lower off, top rope or rappel back to the base with a 70 meter. This could take some of the crowds off of Super Hits wall.

There is NOT an easy way to get off this route - if you ever find yourself on top without a rope.