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Good warm-up moves on positive holds off the ground lead to a VERY reachy dihedral section. Above this, save some gas for the powerful finish MOOOO-VES. - YEE-HAW!! -
This wall faces north, so it's usually shaded during the hot morning hours of summer. It is a pretty good warm-up route though it requires power if you're not tall.
This is 20 feet left of Chocolate Corner.
5 bolts to lowering anchors.
Alex starts the route with his "signature" long re...
The LONG reach move up in the dihedral.
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 8, 2011
It was quite a spectacle to see a herd of cattle being driven up the canyon trail right underneath us as Alex and I were doing this route....
This route could feel more like 5.11 if you aren't feeling strong and are under 5' 9". The dihedral move is reachy, and there aren't intermediate holds. If you're getting pumped at the finish, it's pretty tough looking for the "hidden" foot hold as you try to clip the chains. Not quite as good as some of the newer routes we've done recently but still 3 1/2 stars I'd say.
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Good moves on steep rock with all-day shade make this a great route.
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Cool route, definitely reachy. At 5'7", I thought it felt like 11a or so. Just one hard move, but turning the right hand to an undercling allowed me to make the reach with length to spare. My 5'1" partner thought it was 11+ using those non-existent intermediates Rich mentions.